Kenta Matsushige from Japan (portrait above) was awarded the Grand Prix of the Jury, which comes with a prize of €15,000. Kenta’s collection displayed exceptional craftsmanship and drew inspiration from his native Japan; both the peaceful beauty of countryside, "hinabi" and the modern urban architecture of Japan, "miyabi". (photos above and below).
Yulia Yefimchuk from Ukraine (portrait below) was given a special mention, as well as the opportunity to have her collection carried in Opening Ceremony stores worldwide for two seasons.
Coralie Mirebelle of France was awarded the ‘Prix Public de la Ville d’Hyères’ by the population of Hyères.
(left: Kenta Matsushige's winning collection)
KENZINE spoke to some of the jury members immediately after the ceremony about their process of deliberation and their experience on the judging panel at Hyères.
Pamela Golbin (Curator at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris)
KENZINE: Pamela, tell us about the deliberations that took place to choose the winner?
Pamela Golbin: It was a really difficult choice, we were really very lucky to have ten very good candidates. Each one had a very different vision and it actually divided us quite a lot ; it made us really consider what the criteria was. Were we judging specifically this collection? Was it about the potential for future collections? And after all that taken into consideration, it was Kenta that made it.
K: What was it you enjoyed the most about the judging opportunity you were afforded at Hyères?
P: Carol and Humberto brought us all together with our totally different visions, and just the opportunity to discuss and share our views was deeply enjoyable. I feel like I have come away from Hyères just as enriched as the young designers. It’s been wonderful.
(right: Coralie Mirabelle's collection won the vote of the public in Hyères)
KENZINE: Yulia Yefimtchuk was given a special mention. Is her's a collection you yourself would see wearing?
CHLOE SEVIGNY : Absolutely! I can’t wait to wear it, in fact I tried some of it on yesterday. Kenta’s collection is also very wearable; I loved his coat with the big sleeves. His attention to detail is incredible and he shows a lot of potential. I’m happy for him.
KENZINE: What was it like being on the jury for the fashion competition?
SPIKE JONZE: Well to be honest it’s not something I know very much about, but I really appreciated the young designers’ imagination, creativity and enthusiasm. Their energy was really contagious and inspiring, and I loved being able to hear their story about how they got here and how they arrived at the inspiration for their collections. Liselore Frowjin with her crazy colours; Kenta’s total precision; Anne Kluytenaar's story about the elegant menswear collection she made for her father… I had the chance to meet her father, who is awesome and he is so, so proud. Her collection looked so cool on the runway – those guys were wearing Chanel-inspired dresses and smoking cigarettes. She pulled it off!
Jay Massacret (Fashion director of V and V man magazines):
KENZINE: Jay, tell us about why you the jury felt that Yulia Yefimtchuk deserved a special mention?
JAY MASSACRET: We thought Yulia really captured the moment of today, so we wanted to recognise that. And we also considered that any girl could wear her collection: Chloe (Sevigny)could wear it, Carol (Song) could wear it, anyone could wear it! And Kenta was just perfection. Everything was so precise and detailed, and also of the moment. He really met all the criteria. It was definitely difficult deliberating, but it was fun.
Jaime Perlman (Creative Director of British Vogue):
KENZINE: Was there an outstanding quality in Kenta’s collection that led you and the jury to choose him as the overall winner?
JAMIE PERLMAN: There was a lot of deliberating; we were all in agreement that there were many strong designers and those strengths lay in different areas . Kenta’s collection was very sophisticated and well-crafted, so we felt he was deserving of the Grand Prix, and that this prize would really create career opportunities for him. With Yulia, we thought her bold and individual style would be the was deserving of a special mention and a commercial opportunity.
KENZINE also had the chance to speak to Yulia Yefimtchuk about her special mention (photos above).
KENZINE: You just received a special mention and the chance to have your collection sold in OC stores for two seasons. How do you feel?
YULIA: I wasn’t expecting such a prize, I am so happy to have such an opportunity because it’s so important to the development of my brand, which I have had since 2011. This collection was all about strength and self-confidence.
K: What are your ambitions for your next collection?
Y: I am going to work very hard! I will try to do my best.
Photos: Etienne Tordoir/CatwalkPictures