Shine bright like a diamond - it's Christmas!
The Blue Velvet makeup of our Women's Fall/Winter 2014 show
Our Fall/Winter collection is a homage from Carol and Humberto to David Lynch. Besides the mysterious aura and the cinematographic theme, references to his work are can be found in the prints and colour range of our collections. For the third collection and final chapter - our women show - the director himself designed the mysterious set with the head. Our models payed him a tribute with this Blue Velvet makeup.
Like mother like daughter
'The greatest fashion photographers are not, first and foremost, fashion photographers; that is what makes our research about them interesting and without certainty. Deborah Tuberville had to be ordained by Avedon before she could shoot numerous series for Vogue. What’s most striking in Turbeville’s pictures is that models do not seem to be concerned about the shooting; we become thus the voyeurs of a moment we would normally be estranged from. The dull light, the protagonists sometimes almost out of focus, the pictorial quality of the grain build an illusion, a fiction that invites us to think about what comes before and after the actual picture. The pictures are strange, sometimes a bit ominous despite the softness of the faces. But in Wallflower, her first book, Turbeville delivers contact sheets, where pictures are framed by tape – a lesson in photography.'
'Wallflower', Deborah Turbeville, 1978, 128 p. Ed. Congreve.
KENZO - 60, rue de Rennes, Paris.
'You have probably already experienced this before : in the realm of art, minimalism is what allows you to gain access to other dimensions such as the infinite, space, the cosmos… And it’s all the more striking when the artist turns a minimalist form into his or her motto, as Yayoi Kusama did with dots. It’s an obsession that she multiplies and that comes in all colors, shapes, volumes or patterns, and that she links to a metaphor of life, each dot symbolizing a life. But it becomes very interesting when she adds mirrors to her compositions, or when her dots become mirrors themselves, creating compositions or color dots in the night. Kusama’s works then swing into 3D universes, almost surreal, whilst they have never so perfectly embodied the infiniteness they stand for. I could also have discussed the importance of the body and sexuality in her works, but that will be for another time…'
'Yayoi Kusama', 2012, 304 p. Ed. Rizzoli.
KENZO - 60, rue de Rennes, Paris.
In all of our hearts, a broken mirror
Our Fall/Winter collection is inspired by David Lynch’s work and the theme of the broken mirror appears in a recurrent manner in the prints, the campaign visuals and our boutique windows.
Pacôme Thiellement is the author of « La Main gauche de David Lynch » (« David Lynch’s left hand »), a book that highlights David Lynch’s work as an analysis of the TV culture. We asked him to tell us all about the symbolism of the broken tube.
"Twin Peaks opens on the image of a mirror. Facing the mirror is Josie Packard, the heiress of the Packard Mill, played by the actress Joan Chen. She is putting make-up on while singing in a low, almost stifled voice – meanwhile, her brother-in-law, Pete Martell, played by Jack Nance, goes fishing and stumbles upon the corpse of Laura Palmer (Shery Lee). “She is dead… Wrapped in plastic…”
Throughout the series we will see the mirror over and over again, associated with dibbouk (a malicious pocessing spirit believed to be disclocated soul of a dead person. It supposedly leavesthe host body onceit has accomplished its goal,sometimes after being helped.) Bob (Frank Silva), who takes pleasure in seeing the frightened faces of his victims. It’s when his vessel Leland Palmer (Ray Wise), the father and murderer of Laura, looks at himself in the mirror that Bob’s face is conjured up: Leland is then just an empty shell, an envelope containing “straying influences”, with “a large hole where his conscience used to be.” Taking over his prey through their suffering and perversions, the dibbouk is the vehicle of criminal impulses that the “culprit” of Laura Palmer’s murder has become.
Midway through the series, FBI agent Dale Cooper, the show’s protagonist (Kyle MacLachlan), arrests Leland, but the latter commits suicide in jail, allowing Bob to find another victim. Agent Cooper stays in town and begins being guided by signs. But these signs no longer help him to resolve a criminal investigation, they transport him to the frontier of the world: the Black Lodge, standing at the heart of a circle of twelve sycamore trees, but outside space and time. Cooper enters it and goes through the opposite of a journey of initiation, as the journey will empty his soul and turn him into a shadow. Twin Peaks also ends on the image of a mirror. It’s the mirror of the bathroom of one of the rooms of the Grand Nord hotel – broken by Agent Cooper. In it, he just gazes into Bob’s face instead of his own.
The hero that we have loved and we have followed is contaminated by the evil he is trying to fight. With its ending, the series, which is like a mirror for the soul of the viewer, breaks this mirror, leaving the viewer alone and worried, faced with an evil that he or she will have to fight on his or her own, without the help of Agent Cooper or any other character. The mountains of Twin Peaks are like two beings mirroring each other, the series and its viewer. If the relationship between TV and mirror is not clear enough, the movie Twin Peaks – Fire Walk with me, which presents a journey of initiation this time, as opposed to the series, opens with a broken TV and ends on the vision of an angel. By breaking a TV set full of electricity, the movie reminds us that from now on, the fight against the dark psychic forces will unfold in real life. But the series could officiate as our guide, with a wing in one world, and the other in another world.
The goals of Twin Peaks is to make life resemble Twin Peaks, not just television. The goal of Twin Peaks is to have the viewer in his or her turn see the dibbouk in his or her mirror, and not just in Cooper’s. The goal of Twin Peaks is to qualify us in our turn as illuminating knights to take over the fight that the FBI agents have lost - Dale Cooper, but also Chet Desmond (Chris Isaak) and Philip Jeffries (David Bowie), who have disappeared in mysterious circumstances before the Palmer Case. The mirror of Twin Peaks will also be present in David Lynch’s next movies. In Lost Highway, it’s the mirror in which we see Renée Madison (Patricia Arquette) watch herself in her bathroom – the last image of the character before her disappearance and her replacement by Alice Wakefield. In Mulholland Drive, the two young women (Naomi Watts and Laura Harring) look at themselves in the mirror before kissing, making love and going to the Silencio, the anti-initiatory center that will corrupt their souls and plunge their reality into darkness.
This mirror is the “Mirror for Princes” from traditional, Arthurian and Persian knight’s narratives. The “Mirrors for Princes” are preparations for a fight. And this fight is like a constant fight that first goes through the exploration of every fragment of the world like the pieces of a puzzle. In every moment of our life, there is a dragon to be slain and a princess to be saved – and very often, they both are the same person. The mirror symbolizes when one becomes the chosen one. It reminds us that we are not the only ones looking at the world. The world is also looking us in the eye. We expect something from the world and in return, it expects something from us.
To get there, we have to tear it into pieces. The world only starts to acknowledge us when we have been broken: our hearts broken, our souls torn, our faces drowned in tears. The world loves us only when we are broken, our bones raw, our flesh burning. But conversely, we can only start to understand the world when we discover it piece by piece: chunks, fragments scattered around like poems – with their words dispersed upon a page. That is the meaning of Leonard Cohen’s song Anthem, “There is a crack, a crack in everything / That's how the light gets in.” Even the world, even the angels have had their heart broken. That’s why we can communicate with them. We are all also broken – and it’s through the cracks that we can start talking to each other, understanding each other, loving each other."
Welcome to the Black Lodge!
If you are a die-hard fan of Twin Peaks, you may be familiar with the black and white herringbone floor from the red room in this mysterious series.This season, Carol and Humberto put a fun spin to it, transporting the infamous chevron to an imaginery Pacific Northwest where kind monsters made of tools meet femme fatales. Twist that Lynchean touch with a KENZO flavour and juxtapose different colors. You will lose yourself in this hypnotic print!
PICK YOUR TWIN PEAKS CHARACTER FOR HALLOWEEN: DAY #2 - LIL
Halloween is almost here and we've got you covered. This season, our collection is inspired by David Lynch so the Twin Peaks characters were an obvious choice. Get a stylish costume together with an aura of mystery! Second on the list: Lil.
PICK YOUR TWIN PEAKS CHARACTER FOR HALLOWEEN: DAY #1 - LAURA PALMER