The bold pattern of repeated squares creates a negative/positive optical illusion to create an extremely graphic look. In the same vein as the Doors print, Squares make reference to the frames in rolls of film – a cinematic nod to the work of David Lynch which was the focal reference of the Fall/Winter 2014 collections.
KENZO loves Printemps
KENZO has been invited by iconic department store Printemps to create an exclusive capsule collection for men and women, available only at the Printemps Paris flagship store between the 28th August and the 18th October. KENZO will be taking over the boulevard Haussmann windows and installing a joyously experimental pop-up store in the Atrium at the heart of the iconic department store.
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In a mysterious and surreal universe inspired by the works of David Lynch, visitors will be able to shop dresses, tops and trousers in this season’s 'Monster' and 'Broken Floor' prints; the Kalifornia bag in new colours; sweatshirts featuring the iconic 'Eye', 'Tiger' and 'KENZO' logo motifs, and much more!
As is typically KENZO, the six week event will be accompanied by foodie happenings as well as digital interactive experiences. See you at Printemps from August 28th!
Introduction to Fall 2014
It’s been almost twenty-five years since David Lynch’s eerie cult drama Twin Peaks first aired and pulled an entire generation into the depths of its bizarre world. Reflecting a career-long fascination with the darkness concealed behind a facade of the banal, the sleepy town was a fictional realm where nothing was as it seemed. Lynch put it best himself on the poster of his 1992 film Fire Walk With Me (a prologue to the series) with the headline: “In a town like Twin Peaks, no one is innocent.”
Whether it was Agent Cooper’s pristine suits or Audrey Horne’s black and white brogues, for many of us, Twin Peaks left a lasting impression on our collective fashion psyche. Apparently we’re not the only ones, as KENZO’s Pre-Fall 2014 collection is very much a love letter to the warped dualities and complexities that drew us into Lynch's fantastical world. But Carol and Humberto have never been too literal or singular with their references. This pre-collection, which was followed by an artistic collaboration on the set and soundtrack with David Lynch for the Fall/Winter 2014 show, draws on the motifs and codes of Lynch’s Pacific North-West but is re-mixed for today’s digital generation.
Plaid – which holds its own position in American folklore and made oh so many appearances on Lynch’s oddball characters - is twisted and re-worked with bold neon accents (imagine stark ‘90s fluorescent beam lighting via the 20th century artist Dan Flavin – a favourite of the design duo). Further skewing the familiar, the plaid prints of the collection infused with neon, with jagged lines that dart their way across skirts, jumpers and dresses like the eerie visuals of TV static. Shoes and belts are made up from hypnotic prints and serve as optical illusions – a nod to the fact that in Twin Peaks you can’t ever trust the ground you stand on.
Then comes fire. Now, if you’ve ever seen the creation of a Cai Guo-Qiang gunpowder painting then you will understand its parallel state between beauty and destruction. In Twin Peaks, the line “Fire Walk with Me” is ambiguous invitation to the unknown. Carol and Humberto quite literally play with fire in this collection, emblazoning the words as a slogan on knitwear and allowing yellow flames to creep up the back of garments. In their hands, it’s a fearless force of great power.
The interplay of contrasting elements is very much at the core of this collection. Carol and Humberto might have grown up on the West coast, but here they explore the mystery and strangeness of the American Northwest. Silhouettes of mountain peaks adorn garments alongside prints of doors that ultimately lead to nowhere. Just as Lynch sought to explore the human instability that lurks underneath the everyday, Carol and Humberto remind us that modern life is far more exciting when you get to push the limitations of reality.
After a countdown week of teaser GIFS, we are excited to finally reveal the KENZO Fall/Winter 2014 campaign, our third collaboration with the trio from Toiletpaper Magazine!
The KENZO Fall-Winter 2014 campaign takes us on a mysterious journey to an unfamiliar world. A place where the ordinary is slightly distorted, mirrors lead to other dimensions, and the strange and beautiful coexist in singular harmony...
Here is an exclusive look at the 12 campaign visuals, for men and women, KENZO kids, watches and accessories!
The KENZO Kalifornia campaign
Carol Lim: "This being our third collaboration, we were interested in figuring out ways to evolve the past concepts into something that felt different but still in the spirit of both KENZO and TOILETPAPER. Since the collection was inspired by David Lynch, it was natural for us to incorporate some of the emotions we experience when seeing his work."
Our mysterious muse for Fall/Winter 2014, the legendary Guinevere van Seenus.
Humberto Leon: "Guinevere really feels like a woman who could live in David Lynch's world and could emulate the range of charactor one could see in his movies. We loved how she plays on the subtly ambiguous relationship with Robbie. It's part of the process of trying to discern what's really going on."
Models Guinevere van Seenus and Robbie McKinnon
The men's shoes campaign
Guinevere van Seenus and Robbie McKinnon in the dedicated KENZO eywear campaign, a new line introduced for Fall/Winter 2014.
Guinevere has her eye on you in this dedicated KENZO eyewear campaign image.
Guinevere and the coveted Kalifornia bag.
It's KENZO time! Campaign image for the new collection of women's watches
And last but not least, the final image for women's jewelry!
Want to find out more about the KENZO Fall/Winter 2014 campaign? Read our interview with Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari and Micol Talso from Toiletpaper here, and our interview with male model Robbie McKinnon here!
And don't forget to watch Toiletpaper's teaser video if you missed it the first time!
On this occasion, the artistic duo was inspired by the oceanic themes of the collection, and played upon aquatic images to create a unique universe as weird and unexpected as it is playful. KENZO muse Devon’s sunglasses light up with shrimps, while her shoes swim in an aquarium amongst goldfish. In one of the standout images from the campaign, model Paul lands a doubly lucky ‘catch of the day’; not just a pretty magical-looking rainbow fish but also our lovely muse …Devon!
Quirkiness at KENZO knows no bounds, and next it is to the bizarre and at times unsettling eye of artist and film director David Lynch to which we turn for the Fall/Winter 2014 collection. Just remember that things are not always as they seem…
To get your hands on all the images from the Spring/Summer 2014 campaign by TOILETPAPER, head to one of our KENZO boutiques to pick up a collector's edition of KENZINE issue 2, limited to just 2000 copies worldwide.
THE GRAND FINALE
Carol and Humberto mined the wondrous work and world of David Lynch for the last two KENZO collections (men’s and pre-Fall) and their infatuation reached a climatic point today at the woman’s Fall/Winter 2014 presentation in Paris. For the grand finale in this cinematic trilogy the duo actually worked with the iconic director himself on the soundtrack, mood, and set design, which included a giant sculpture that dramatically flickered at the end of the runway. “This was always our plan to work with him on the finale, on the ending,” said Humberto excitedly post show.
From the cloak and dagger dark curtained venue, to the maze-like configuration of the catwalk, and the driving kick-drum beat on the soundtrack, Lynch’s touch was distinctly present at every moment. Even the candied popcorn served to guests seemed like a nod to his obsession with Americana. “He really designed the entire thing,” said Humberto. “Including the mirrors, the configuration of the runway, even the way the girls walked… it was meant to feel like they were getting lost.”
Although Lynch’s oeuvre is both varied and extensive, this marks his first foray into the world of fashion shows. “He’s never worked on a fashion show so I think he was really intrigued about the process,” said Carol.
As for the garments, the duo set out to create a collection “though the eyes of David Lynch,” — a wardrobe for the modern Lynchian heroine. Silhouettes and, as ever with Kenzo, prints were the focal points of this collection with the former explored as never before. Volumes were exaggerated and then contrasted to great effect: lean tailored looks were styled with buoyant circle skirts that sat on the waist, fitted bodices had peplums, and sharp tailored suits that should have been slim were made in quilted down. Nothing was as it seemed.
The “tool creatures” first seen in the men’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection reappeared in both print and as embroidered motifs, and other prints were drawn directly from Lynch’s universe — reflections of shattered mountain ranges appeared in acid yellow and a herring-bone flooring pattern was pushed to almost a psychedelic effect.
KENZO regulars Leigh Lezark, Jessica Alba and Mademoiselle Yulia sat front row drawing up their shopping lists — those pochettes inscribed with the words “Forever, no?” will certainly be at the top — and although Lynch couldn't be there another important luminary was present. Founder Mr Kenzo Takada, put in an appearance to show his continued support for the new team. “We really design with him in mind, so it’s nice to see him being excited about what we are doing,” commented Humberto backstage.
THE SET OF THE KENZO WOMEN's FALL/WINTER 2014 SHOW
The set of our Fall/Winter 2014 women's show was designed by David Lynch.
The head symbolises the unknowable strangeness that lies at the heart of all things. What Lynch calls "Mysterioso".
Lynch explained: “I've sculpted a head in clay once, and I had put a piece of cheese and some turkey inside it. I've opened a kind of mouth on it and I've left it in my kitchen. For four days, ants have come and worked day and night to eat it up. Their small legs had created like pores on it, the clay seemed real, it was unbelievable !” (source 20 minutes / in French).
Most of Twin Peaks fans know Julee Cruise, famous for singing the hit "Falling" from Twin Peaks soundtrack. They might have also recognized the head used on the cover of her album "The Voice of Love".
Source and english translation: Lynchland