MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2015: earthly colors, flashes of fluorescent orange and silver
The show was held in the freshly inaugurated Philarmonie de Paris, architect Jean Nouvel’s jagged almuninum starship concert hall on the city’s northeastern edge in the Parc de la Villette cultural center. For the Fall/Winter 2015 menswear collection, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon mixed technical fabrics and urban sport shape layering in an earthy rainbow of colors shot with flashes of fluorescent orange and silver.
Hybrid combinations of tailoring and sport characterize this collection. The reefer slim coat with hood in military olive tech fabric shaped with black piping and patch pocket sleeves that opened the show is a case in point; it looks like a wet suit transformed into urbanwear. Sleeve cuffs with thumb holes, a functional detail taken from motorcycle racing jackets, show throughout the on coats, jackets and sweaters. Slim trousers in military olive or burgundy tech fabric are topped by great tunic sweaters in multicolor space dye knits or spliced, ikat-style stripes with thumb holes cuffs. Underneath the layered olive outerwear there’s fluorescent orange and black acid wash style jean jackets and stovepipe jeans.
Pattern runs throughout this collection on great satin parka coats spliced with black bands, in all over chalk on blackboard style doodles and big, fuzzy block lettering on knits and complex tech pattern intarsias. These patterns are piled one on top of another in jackets, sweaters and shirts in a seemingly haphazard fashion that creates a choatic symphony of color and form.
Jumpsuits are roomy styled like outerwear blousons with contrast colored yokes, or in chaotic pattern knit. And there’s is a psychedelic feeling in tie-dye splatter-colored fur, which shows up in collars on satin tech blousons and allover in one scoop-neck jacket.
Everything in this collection is designed to be layered and the piled-on look is accentuated with trompe-l’œil blouson-over-coat and multiple stripey sleeve constructions, which bring a muted rainbow of color to each look.
Bonded crinkled silver tech fabric with fluorescent orange satin for big jackets gives a cartoon super hero drama to big anoraks and big parkas. And contrast-colored oversized stitching shows throughout on sweater stripes and bicolored leather sneakers as though the clothes have been taken apart and roughly stitched back together.
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As you know, we love discovering exclusive places for our shows and events. After the Confucius temple in Shanghai, we once again managed to surprise our guests with a place that none of them knew. The Berrics is an indoor skatepark where only pro-skaters are allowed to ride, located at a secret address where the skate sessions are filmed and then posted online.
Our V.I.P guests including Fergie, Jessica Alba, Rose McGowan, Gillian Jacobs and Rashida Jones discovered a gigantic table decorated with candelabras and silverware, between grind boxes and quarter pipes.
The dinner was the perfect occasion for Carol and Humberto to spend time with their L.A. friends: Devon Aoki, Langley Fox, Carrie Brownstein, China Chow, Gia Coppola and Brad Goreski, around a delicious menu inspired by French gastronomy by Root of all Food collective.
After dinner, a surprise was revealed!
Once the tablecloth (embroidered with fish from Spring/Summer 2014 collection) was removed, the table transformed in to a skate ramp covered with KENZO stickers where four women skaters performed tricks riding back and forth right in front of the guests.
The evening came to an end under the Californian stars with a DJ set by Total Freedom and a live performance by the amazing Kelala.
We heard that some of the Kalifornia bags watched the sun rise that night on Santa Monica beach. The perfect debut for our “locals only” new icon, symbol of California, with a touch of French elegance of course!
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KENZO IN HONG KONG - PART#2: EMMANUEL PERROTIN GALLERY
After the re-opening of our store at Landmark, the celebrations continued in nearby Central district. Carol and Humberto hosted a dinner at Emmanuel Perrotin Gallery, which represents Maurizio Cattelan, one of our favourite artist who's also part of the TOILETPAPER team behind our Fall/Winter 2013 advertising campaign.
Toiletpaper’s visuals for Kenzo provided the decor, with blown-up t-shirts and poster-covered walls serving as an impromptu backdrop for photocalls by our guests, among them bloggers Cindiddy, Denise Lai and Janice Lee, and Hong Kong fashion scene figureheads Kevin Poon, Kat Yeung and Faye Tsui.
The dinner tables decorations were inspired by the themes from our collection, with placemats and light holders bedecked in Lotus Eye, Flying Tiger and Cloud prints. All-star chef May Chow created a tasting menu of the finest in contemporary Chinese cuisine which included his specialty Bao, a burger with a Chinese bun twist.
Our guests wasted no time in instagramming their burgers garnished with Ks and eyes for the occasion! A rousing post-dinner performance by percussionists Drumcat –probably the world’s only foxy female Korean drummer outfit complete with leather boots and salsa moves– brought the evening to an end with a bang!
KENZO IN HONG KONG - PART#1: LANDMARK
Hong Kong is a fascinating city, a unique East-meets-West melting pot and haven of fashion and fine food, famous for its jungle-meets-cutting-edge architecture and smog-choked iconic skyline. Hong Kong is also where it all started for Carol and Humberto. It was during a shopping trip here, while discovering the treasures the city yielded when they got inspired to open their own store in New York to share their finds.
On Tuesday night, we re-opened our KENZO store in the city’s most prestigious mall - The Landmark - and it certainly was a landmark event for us.
Celebrations kicked off at the store, where Carol and Humberto showed the label’s Hong Kong fans around the new space, fitted out with raw concrete, aluminum structures and marble print carpets.
The staples of our Fall/Winter collections – Cloud prints, Flying Tiger accessories, and the Eye collection (a big hit here!) – currently feature heavily in-store, and giant screens displayed looped sequences of exclusive images inspired by our key seasonal patterns for the Kenzo-clad fashionistas in attendance.
A gaggle of TV stations outside swooped on the celebrities as they arrived, including heartthrob Ken Hung, Wyman Wong, inseparable from his black Eye sweatshirt, Edmond Leung looking angelic in a sky-blue fur coat, and Aarif Rahman, who was mobbed by fans!
The KENZO Menswear store is open every day from 10.30 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. at The Landmark (Boutique B10, Landmark Atrium) 1 Exchange Square, Central, Hong Kong
BOOK SIGNING WITH HANS FEURER IN LONDON
Last night, KENZO London organised a book signing for Hans Feurer, legendary Swiss fashion photographer who produced memorable campaigns for KENZO in the 80s. His first monograph - Exotic Eye (Damiani) - is an amazing ode to wild women, where you can rediscover beautiful KENZO images featuring Iman or Sayoko.
31 Bruton St, London, United Kingdom W1J 6HH, UK
+44 20 7491 8469
THE JOURNEES PARTICULIèRES AT KENZO VIDEO
INSPIRED BY KENZO #2
Yesterday, Kenzo prints from the men's Fall/Winter 2013 collection inspired three delicious cocktails designed by Belvedere:
JUNGLE OF THE SKY
Vodka, elderberry sirup, fresh mashed strawberries, a splash of lemon juice and cranberry juice.
Vodka, curaçao, a splash of yellow lemon juice with fresh squeezed orange juice and a touch of cinammon.
Vodka, spicy sirup, a splash of lemon juice and raspberry juice.
But don't try them all at the same time!
Those cocktails must be taken in moderation.
"JUNGLE OF THE SKY" IN PARIS
Yesterday, we presented our men's Fall/Winter 2013 collection along with the "Above the sky and beyond" film to the press at la Pagoda, an amazing space in the 8th arrondissement of Paris.
Clouds and tigers were guarding the space and Jean Nipon and Adam from the band Kindness were playing for a crowd of friends.
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Balloons in all shapes and colors, showers of confetti, macarons to cotton candy, giant table football, a string of pinatas, a cute mini nurse, a skateboard ramp, a kissing stand, a band that played at the furious pace of Britney Spears, an intergalactic ping pong table, a fishing booth, tattoos done by The Scott Campbell, Swedish massage by Swedes, a giant coloring wall, a bowling alley, a larger than life Barbie, a wheel of fortune controlled by a green crocodile, a dance class to learn the classic moves of Michael Jackson, MC Hammer and Beyoncé, a chocolate cooking class with Cooklette, Antoine Doisnel on a big screen and catching the flying KENZO t-shirts shot into the air by guns.......... A joyful celebration orchestrated by 2manydjs and Ed Banger had the crowds dazed and amazed.
Happy Birthday Colette!