"a wholly cinematic experience" BY ALICE CAVANAGH - Kenzine, the Kenzo official blog

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Last night, KENZO friends and family were celebrating the Fall/Winter 2014 women's show at the Rex Club.
The Misshapes, Yu Masui, Cedric Rivrain, Michael Mayren, Rila Fukushima, Nicolas Gaudin, Pierpaolo Ferrari, Jonathan Friedman, Justin Wu, Kiddy Smile, Pablo Olea, Yvan Rodic, Jessica Alba, Clara 3000, André, Mademoiselle Yulia, Olympia le Tan or Mary Faline to name a few enjoyed a pop and house set by Dactylo with Carol and Humberto, followed by Jungle duo and a live by Katy B!

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Carol and Humberto mined the wondrous work and world of David Lynch for the last two KENZO collections (men’s and pre-Fall) and their infatuation reached a climatic point today at the woman’s Fall/Winter 2014 presentation in Paris. For the grand finale in this cinematic trilogy the duo actually worked with the iconic director himself on the soundtrack, mood, and set design, which included a giant sculpture that dramatically flickered at the end of the runway. “This was always our plan to work with him on the finale, on the ending,” said Humberto excitedly post show. 

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From the cloak and dagger dark curtained venue, to the maze-like configuration of the catwalk, and the driving kick-drum beat on the soundtrack, Lynch’s touch was distinctly present at every moment. Even the candied popcorn served to guests seemed like a nod to his obsession with Americana. “He really designed the entire thing,” said Humberto. “Including the mirrors, the configuration of the runway, even the way the girls walked… it was meant to feel like they were getting lost.”


 

Although Lynch’s oeuvre is both varied and extensive, this marks his first foray into the world of fashion shows. “He’s never worked on a fashion show so I think he was really intrigued about the process,” said Carol.

 

As for the garments, the duo set out to create a collection “though the eyes of David Lynch,” — a wardrobe for the modern Lynchian heroine. Silhouettes and, as ever with Kenzo, prints were the focal points of this collection with the former explored as never before. Volumes were exaggerated and then contrasted to great effect: lean tailored looks were styled with buoyant circle skirts that sat on the waist, fitted bodices had peplums, and sharp tailored suits that should have been slim were made in quilted down. Nothing was as it seemed.

 

The “tool creatures” first seen in the men’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection reappeared in both print and as embroidered motifs, and other prints were drawn directly from Lynch’s universe — reflections of shattered mountain ranges appeared in acid yellow and a herring-bone flooring pattern was pushed to almost a psychedelic effect.

 

 

KENZO regulars Leigh Lezark, Jessica Alba and Mademoiselle Yulia sat front row drawing up their shopping lists — those pochettes inscribed with the words “Forever, no?” will certainly be at the top — and although Lynch couldn't be there another important luminary was present. Founder Mr Kenzo Takada, put in an appearance to show his continued support for the new team. “We really design with him in mind, so it’s nice to see him being excited about what we are doing,” commented Humberto backstage.


 

Our best KENZO ambassadors this morning in front of La Cité de la Mode in Paris... A joyful mix of Eyes and tigers from last season and fish and waves from this one!

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This morning, KENZO friends and family came out in force at La Cité de la Mode in Paris to show some love and support to Carol and Humberto.
A beautiful front row where Jessica Alba, Rila Fukushima, Jeanne Damas, Mademoiselle Yulia, Delfina Delettrez, Suzie Bubble, Chiara Ferragni, Atlanta de Cadenet or Tao Okomonto were wearing their favourite KENZO silhouettes of the season.

Even Kenzo Takada graced us with his presence!

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The set of our Fall/Winter 2014 women's show was designed by David Lynch.
The head symbolises the unknowable strangeness that lies at the heart of all things. What Lynch calls "Mysterioso".

 

Lynch explained: “I've sculpted a head in clay once, and I had put a piece of cheese and some turkey inside it. I've opened a kind of mouth on it and I've left it in my kitchen. For four days, ants have come and worked day and night to eat it up. Their small legs had created like pores on it, the clay seemed real, it was unbelievable !” (source 20 minutes / in French). 

Most of Twin Peaks fans know Julee Cruise, famous for singing the hit "Falling" from Twin Peaks soundtrack. They might have also recognized the head used on the cover of her album "The Voice of Love".

 

Source and english translation: Lynchland

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If you want to know everything about our women's Fall/Winter show 2014, meet us on our Instagram and Twitter accounts (@kenzo) - for a coverage that has started at 8AM this morning - or here later in the afternoon.

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You'll get a full recap of the backstage, the collection, the venue, the guests or the music!

Here's a selection of our favourite looks spotted in front of the Centorial on Saturday morning for the Fall/Winter 2014 men's show.

Verbal and Yoon, Peter Xu, Wyman Wong, Mrs. Kwon, Johnny Ho and Dan Cui (GQ CHINA) are among our favourite ambassadors and they were nicely representing the brand!

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"There was a distinct chill in the air in Paris this morning, but showgoers kept warm outside the show venue by sipping on cups of black coffee from KENZO coffee mugs. Inside, the scene was set up with wooden structures center stage and graphic markings on the runway. This was an imagined industrial community complete with tin roofs and raw interiors.
 

 

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Continuing their love for all things Americana this season Carol and Humberto looked to the Pacific Northwest drawing from the region’s industrial work culture and majestic scenery. As such, the KENZO Fall Winter 2014/2015 man they envisaged is a hard-working, yet elegant, man. His uniform is comprised of well-tailored suiting, cosy knitwear, cropped jackets and voluminous pea coats. There were also the essential chunky safety boots and clogs that channelled an urban lumberjack — if ever there was such a thing.
 

“We wanted to showcase the industrial side of America,” said Humberto of the collection, once the show had wrapped. “Everything is about function; there is that culture or idea that you make clothing for a specific purpose. We really wanted to explore that functionality and thought that there could be beauty and elegance found in the ordinary.”
Of course there was nothing ordinary about the collection, which, in true KENZO style saw a twisted take on traditional ideas. An everyday fabric concept like plaid was turned on its head and reproduced as a digital print, the checks glowing vividly like electrical wiring.  Likewise a motif that was featured as both a print and as a jewellery design saw “creatures” being constructed from the essentials found in a workers toolbox: nuts, bolts and nails. Cable knits, a staple for working life in the Northwest, were laminated and featured in an acid lime colour that was reminiscent of the glow of a safety vest.
 

With the exception of this supercharged hue, the palette for the collection was mostly earthen tones —rich browns in shades of espresso and chocolate, deep blues, grey, charcoal, and to throw things off centre a little, lilac purple. “The brown tones were a starting point for us,” said Humberto. “It was a colour that we have a love/hate relationship with, I really wanted to embrace that colour and its potential elegance and beauty.”

 


 

The landscape imagery featured on some of the final outerwear looks broke up the palette nicely. Picturesque scenery featuring trees, a flowing river, the silhouette of a mountain range, and a glowing moon, were rendered in appliqué on a leather bomber jacket and a long tailored coat. Inspired by the panoramic views in the Northwest, in the cowboy country states like Montana and Idaho, these images were unexpectedly cast in cool, midnight tones. The overall effect was a slightly darker mood Kenzo, and the eerie soundtrack by New York musician Fatima Al Qadiri made the show a wholly cinematic experience".