The Life Aquatic - Marine influences in the SS14 collection
The watery depths of the world’s immense oceans have fascinated us mere mortals for centuries. Sailors went to their graves while trying to tame the wildest seas; artists have painstakingly attempted to capture the brilliant, but ever-shifting shades of blue; and divers continue to be enchanted by the world beneath the surface.
Kenzo Takada felt the lure of the ocean. He crossed countless seas on his maiden voyage to France from Japan, encountering exotic places along the way. The adventure left such an impression on him that it informed the very aesthetic of KENZO itself — that eclectic mix of cultures and influences — and also became a touchstone for many of the brand’s most important archival moments. We’ve found a men’s button-down shirt from the late 1980s that features an oversized fish print, and the wave crest logo that was used for KENZO Jeans. The denim label featured a motif that resembled Japanese artist Katushika Hokusai’s famous woodblock wave print series.
Carol and Humberto have also always been aware of the powerful pull of the ocean. Growing up in California with the immense Pacific Ocean lining the coast, they witnessed the ebb and flow of tides and the delicate world our marine life inhabits within. It’s fitting, then, that the life aquatic was the jumping off point for KENZO’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Vibrant blues feature throughout and a wave crest motif has been explored in a myriad of innovative ways. In a touch of irreverence, wide-legged trousers are cut in shimmery lacquered silk — a nod to the wondrous watery world that inspired the collection as a whole.
Fashion can be used as a powerful soapbox for awareness, and Carol and Humberto hope to help bring awareness to the devastating effects of overfishing, helped by a partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation. Bluefin tuna, rainbow trout, marlin and grouper are just four fish species that are currently protected by the foundation, but ongoing support is crucial. The ‘next generation’ eye-catching KENZO fish print was introduced for the Spring/Summer 2014 collection, but this time it is emboldened by an important message — “No Fish No Nothing”.
Product Highlight #3
KENZO sustainable recipes
Food has always been part of the KENZO lifestyle so it was important for us to combine this passion and our fight against overfishing.
Our second KENZO sustainable recipe is by Olivier Roellinger - chef of Maisons de Bricourt. Here is the herb-crusted grey mullet fillet with a citrus vinaigrette and dried fruits!
Early fall is when fattened sea breams begin their journey into deeper waters for the winter. Conversely our vegetable gardens, starved of the sun, stop ripening the tomatoes in them. Do we let the tomatoes wither and die on a pile of autumnal twigs? Hell no. Now is the perfect time to cook one of these beautiful tomato and sea bream recipes to share with friends! The smell and sight of one of these is enough to get the mouth watering when you place it in front of yourself or your guests.
Oven-roasted black sea bream with laurel and lemon, fennel seeds and green tomato marmalade.
- 1 whole black sea bream of about 1.5kg. If it was freshly caught that day, let it sit for 24 hours in the fridge.
- 1 onion
- 12 small shallots
- 1 lemon
- 2 bay leaves
- Thyme sprigs
- 1 tbsp fennel seeds
- 2 whole peppercorns
- 3 whole coriander seeds
- 2 dl fish stock
- 200g mussels
- Parsley stalks
- Wild fennel fronds
- 100g butter
- 500g tomatoes
- 150g sugar
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 2 white portions of leeks
- 1 carrot
- 1 onion
- 1 small celery stick
- 1 clove of garlic, thyme, parsley, bay leaf
- 1 orange zest
- 1 slice fresh ginger
- 2 dl medium sweet wine
- 400g sole bones
- 1 l water
Quick and easy. The tomato marmalade can be made well ahead.
Make the green tomato marmalade ahead. Core the tomatoes and quarter them in big pieces. Sprinkle with sugar and pour the lemon juice. Let it marinate in the fridge for 24h. Place over low heat and let it cook for at least three hours, stirring often to avoid sticking. The marmalade can be refrigerated for up to a month.
For the fish stock: Rinse the fish bones under tap water. Dice the carrots, the onion and the white portions of the leeks. Sweat them in butter. Add the medium sweet wine. Boil it for 1 min. Add the fish bones. Then add 1l of water to the level of the preparation. Add the herbs, the orange zest and the Ginger. Bring it slowly to a simmer and let it cook for about 30 min, without skimming, so that the broth will clarify naturally. Delicately strain it through a fine sieve and refrigerate. The fish stock can be refrigerated for 4 to 5 days, but you can also freeze it using an ice tray for other recipes.
Delicately scale the sea bream. Gut it without opening the belly too much and stuff the cavity with the fennel fronds.
Peel the onions and the shallots.
Peel and quarter the lemon, keep 2 zests and blanch them.
Scrub and clean the mussels under running water. Cook them over high heat until open. Only the broth will be used in this recipe. The mussels will be used for another dish, or they can be thread onto skewers and served as an appetizer.
Finely chop the onion.
Preheat the oven on the highest heat. In a dish, combine the onion, the pepper, the coriander, 80g of diced butter in small dices, the fennel, the lemon zest, the thyme sprigs, 1 dl of fish stock and the mussels’ filtered broth. Bake the fish in the dish for about 20 min. Check that the fish is cooked through by pulling out one of the fins on the back, it should come away yet not too easily.
Reheat the marmalade and the shallots.
In a serving dish, put the fish on a cloth; it will allow you to serve up the fish in front of your guests, without it slipping on the dish. What’s more, the cloth will absorb all the juices dripping from the fish.
Strain the juices through a fine sieve, crushing the ingredients. Check the seasoning and the tartness. Serve the sauce in a sauceboat. In a vegetable bowl, serve the shallots and the tomato marmalade with lemon quarters.
1 rue Duguesclin
See all KENZO sustainable recipes here!
Tête à tête with Olivier Roellinger
Last week, we gave tips on how to eat fish in a sustainable way. Today, we ask specialists to provide advice and recipes and help us create awareness on overfishing.
We shared an interview and a recipe by François Pasteau - chef of the restaurant l'Epi du Pin in Paris, who works in collaboration with SeaWeb in order to propose a sustainable cuisine on a daily basis.
Our second chef - Olivier Roellinger - shares two passions with Carol and Humberto: the sea and cooking. He is the former chef of a three stars restaurant 'La Maison de Bricourt' and now chef at 'Le Coquillage' at Château Richeux. He explains how he tends to reconcile them every day.
'The sea is humanity’s pantry. We tend to forget that it is fragile and not an inexhaustible resource. Wherever you are in the world, it is important to know about endangered species, fishing zones and techniques, as well as the species’ size at sexual maturity. This awareness will allow us to show to many that cooking can be tasty while sustainable'.
French chef Olivier Roellinger shares two passions: the sea and cooking. It is thus logical that this 'pirate chef' glorifies seafood through a cuisine that exudes passion and a deep commitment to a sustainable environment. His travels around the globe while looking for the best treasures in spice gardens have also allowed him to experience the beauty and the diversity of the seas. The seas conceal thousands of resources that ought to be preserved, more now than ever. For Olivier Roellinger, cooking seafood is compatible with sustainability. Furthermore, he is convinced that cooking offers a solid bedrock to glorify sustainable seafood. He has a profound desire to share his sensibility and his love for the sea and cooking, to promote its preservation and its valorization in the long term.
Olivier Roellinger is considered one of the top chefs in France. After getting three Michelin stars, he was forced to hand them back and close down his gastronomic restaurant in 2008 due to some health issues. He then decided to open a new place named 'Le Coquillage' (The Shellfish) in Les Maisons de Bricourt in Cancale, where he uses ingredients that range from 'the freshest locally grown vegetables to the most exotic spices, to develop with his crew a cuisine exploring our maritime heritage that is simple and healthy while elegant, generous and full of joy'.
His cooking is also dedicated to the preservation of sea resources. Roellinger has been Vice-President of the international association Relais & Chateaux since 2009 and he has managed to convince the 500 members of the association from 56 countries to sign a charter committing themselves to using sustainable seafood. 'Considering that the seas are not inexhaustible resources, we do not cook endangered fish species, the minimum fish sizes are respected and the fishing techniques are sustainable.' Aware of the problem of dwindling fish stocks, Olivier Roellinger and the members of Relais & Chateaux are enlightened and conscious that they have a role to play as professional buyers of seafood products to preserve resources. 'We the chefs are the first people to influence what kind of seafood people eat. Nowadays, we pay more and more attention to the origins of the products we use – the meats, the vegetables, the cheeses… – yet we do not care enough about seafood. We do not know where the fish come from, what the stocks are. A lot of fish are caught and sold whereas they did not reproduce even once. It is true that it is a complex topic and that information is hard to get. But if we don’t show the example, who will?'
In Europe, half of the seafood is eaten in restaurants. Chefs have therefore a decisive role to play in the entire industry, not only with the fishermen, but also with the consumers, by educating their customers about the fish they chose to cook and the species they put on their menus. “The chefs do have the power to ask their suppliers for what they want and to offer their customers what they see fit. They can choose to promote the species whose stocks are not endangered. A chef can make his customers discover species that might be deemed less prized but that are as delectable as anything else from the ocean.'
Following this logic, Olivier Roellinger has thus taken the Atlantic and Mediterranean Bluefin tuna off his menu. He emphasizes however that his commitment to preserving the seas and their resources is not conflicting with fishing. On the contrary, Roellinger advocates fishing diversity instead of asking the fishermen to give up their job. 'And it is up to us to help the fishermen by creating a new demand for fish. Everything that come from the sea is delicious! We have to diversify the species we eat. The chefs have enough talent to promote unknown species. That is especially what makes our job interesting and beautiful.'
Olivier Roellinger is eager to share his vision with a new generation of chefs, in order to have them change their practice into a more responsible and fair joint approach. To achieve this, he is the ambassador of a culinary competition for sustainable seafood called Pour la préservation des ressources de la mer created by SeaWeb Europe. Roellinger is thrilled to note that the new generation of chefs is particularly receptive to the need for sustainable seafood. He is thus paving the way for new recipes that have to be delectable while preserving resources for future generations.
Interview done in collaboration with SeaWeb Europe.
KENZO SUSTAINABLE RECIPES
Food has always been part of the KENZO lifestyle so it was important for us to combine this passion and our fight against overfishing. We wanted to provide sustainable fish recipes and in order to get a meaningful result, we asked famous French chefs whose work has been guided by this issue. Our first KENZO sustainable recipe by François Pasteau - chef of L'Epi du Pin - is the herb-crusted grey mullet fillet with a citrus vinaigrette and dried fruits.
- 150 g grey mullet (fillet)
- 4 leeks
- 25 cl buttermilk
- dried fruits:
- 25 g hazelnuts
- 25 g dried apricots
- 25 g butter
- 3 oranges
- ½ lime
- ½ lemon
- 5 cl balsamic vinegar
- 10 cl olive oil
- 1 star anise
- 1 small cinnamon stick
- 50g fine dry breadcrumbs
- 1 bunch cilantro (coriander)
Trim the fish into 4 nice fillets and set them aside in the fridge.
Slice the leeks thinly, wash them then blanch them into salted boiling water.
Once the leeks are cooked to a crisp tender stage, transfer them to a bowl of cold water. Empty the cooled leeks into a colander to drain. Squeeze all the water out.
Grate the zest of the oranges, the lime and the lemon.
Squeeze the citrus fruits and combine the juice, the zests, the cinnamon and the star anise into a saucepan. Reduce on a low heat until syrupy.
Let it cool, then add the balsamic vinegar and the olive oil.
Wash the cilantro (coriander) and chop it roughly before putting it in a food processor with the fine breadcrumbs
Beat the egg.
Dip only one side of the fillet into the beaten egg and into the herb and breadcrumbs mixture.
Heat up 5cl of olive oil in a frying pan. Place the fillet in the pan and cook on one side only.
Heat up the leeks in the buttermilk.
Serve the fillet and the leeks with the dried fruits and the citrus vinaigrette.
RESTAURANT L’EPI DUPIN
11 rue Dupin
See all KENZO sustainable recipes here!
Tête à tête with François Pasteau
Last week, we gave tips on how to eat fish in a sustainable way. This week, we asked specialists to provide advice and recipes.
Let's start with the first one - François Pasteau - chef of the restaurant l'Epi Dupin, in the sixth district of Paris. François Pasteau works in collaboration with SeaWeb in order to propose a sustainable cuisine on a daily basis. He explains how overfishing modified his cooking habits and how much still needs to be done in terms of awareness.
KENZINE: What are the things you check when you buy fish?
François Pasteau: I usually pay attention to three different things. First, I make sure the fish have sustainable stocks. Second, I verify the techniques that are used to catch the fish to make sure that they do not have a negative impact on the environment, especially that they avert unnecessary catch. Third, the size of the species you buy are a crucial issue. You need to be responsible and buy fish that have reached their sexual maturity size.
K: How has overfishing modified your cooking habits over the past 20 years?
F. P.: As soon as I heard about the overfishing of Mediterranean Bluefin tuna, I took it off my menus, even though it was a fish my customers loved. I then realized that a lot of marine species were endangered and I became interested in the issue as I wanted to make sure that I would serve sustainable species to my customers. I also stopped serving other species such as European skate and I started cooking other species that I had not served before but that were sustainable: black sea brim, pollock, mullet…
K: What species of fish would you never buy?
F. P.: I gave up buying and cooking bluefin tuna and skate for instance.
K: Name certain species of fish that are ok to buy.
F. P.: It is ok to buy Atlantic sardines, mackerels, pollock, coalfish…
K: Same question for other types of seafood?
F. P.: You can buy scallops, oysters and mussels.
K: Do you think diversity might be one key to the problem?
F. P.: Diversity is of course an important aspect. We have to eat different species and diversify the kind of fish that the consumers can buy to reduce the pressure on overfished and overeaten species (such as cod). The more diverse the fish consumers eat, the more diverse the species that are fished. That is why our actions as chefs are important, because they can impact the entire industry, in particular as far as the fishermen and the consumers are concerned. We have a pedagogical role to play, as we can make our customers aware of overfishing. We can make them discover less known species by putting them on our menus, so that the next time they go to their fishmonger, they can ask for new species they have sampled and loved after having eaten in our restaurant.
K: Do you consider that overfishing has already damaged French culinary heritage?
F. P.: I don’t think that our cooking traditions and practices have been hampered, quite the opposite actually. Emphasis on overfishing has contributed to having the chefs who felt concerned about sustainability turn to new fish species. Some fish have been discovered or rediscovered. In this respect, our cooking traditions have been broadened since we had to create new recipes for the new species! Yet it is sure that our marine heritage, its diversity and its biological treasures are being damaged. It is urgent to reverse the tendency.
K: What are the classical recipes of French cuisine you cannot cook anymore if you want to advocate sustainable fishing?
F. P.: Certain recipes that are often taught in cooking schools should be avoided, such as skate with capers and brown butter.
K: On a long term perspective, what could be the effects of overfishing on cuisine or gastronomy in France?
F. P.: Overfishing does represent a risk for our gastronomic heritage. Indeed, if we do not protect endangered fish today, they might disappear completely, and that would be a terrible loss since we would not be able to cook recipes that are the treasures of our cooking traditions and practices.
K: Do you feel like the French community of fishermen is concerned by the problem?
F. P.: Fishermen are starting to become aware of the problem, but there is still a lot to be done. Awareness needs to be stronger and habits have to change fast.
K: Same question for the fishmongers?
F. P.: Fishmongers are starting to become aware of the importance of sustainable fishing. They could be more involved if the customers, by refusing to buy fish whose stocks are endangered, would drive them to mainly sell sustainable fish.
K: How do you think you can impact consumers habits at your level, first on your menu and then in your restaurants?
F. P.: I think it is important to raise awareness by communicating on the issue: I tell my customers about the species I have on my menu and those I have taken off it, I have them discover new species that they are not used to eating… I want to see their mouths water! I have them taste species that the public no longer knows about or has forgotten. Ultimately, the goal is to have them feel like doing these recipes at home again and to have them making sustainable individual choices.
K: Do you think that public awareness could be easily educated with food being so popular on tv, on Instagram, blogs, etc.?
F. P.: Everything would indeed be much easier if the people responsible for these programs and their content would take seafood sustainability seriously. That is not the case unfortunately. The media do however have a huge role to play and they have done so before with other products. Yet it seems to me that the consumers are not enough aware of the problems of overfishing as the topic is not tackled enough in the press. Too many popular shows are still suggesting recipes that use species known as endangered.
Interview done in collaboration with SeaWeb Europe.
'NO FISH NO NOTHING' ANIMATED VIDEO
Support BLUE Marine Foundation's action and save marine life!
We are extremely excited about our long term partnership between KENZO and BLUE and hope to create more and more awareness to the overfishing issue.
BLUE’s mission statement is the active and effective protection of 10% of the world’s oceans by 2020, delivered through a network of marine reserves and private sector led solutions in the sea.
To financially assist the Blue Marine Foundation with all their endeavours, KENZO has launched a line of unisex sweaters and tee-shirts with the slogan “No fish no nothing”.