Photographer: Robi Rodriguez
Photography Assistant: Federico Radealli
Fashion Assistant: Roberta Hollis
Model: Archie at D1
To best convey the atmosphere and themes of our Spring 2014 collections for men and women, we collaborated with director Hala Matar and actors Anton Yelchin and Lydia Hearst. The movie seeks to incite the mood and spirit we associate with America's West coast and more importantly the ambiance of early 1960’s. A good introduction to our main inspiration of the season. Welcome to California!
It takes place with our two protagonists riding around a set in vintage cars, arriving at different locations reminiscent of those in old Hollywood movies. The hair is gelled, the conversation is stunted. The atmosphere brings us back to how we feel when watching a Rock Hudson movie and when we look at photos of cocktail parties in Palm Springs. For the director the connection between the cars and the collection is that they “both share the timelessness and classic feel”. For us, the wave prints recall an age of visiting the beach during the heyday of 60’s surfers.
Both Anton and Lydia embody the leading man versus ingenue qualities that we used to see in movies from the swinging decade. The music, borne of a collective of live musicians, a mini-orchestra narrating the action in each scene, effortlessly channeling the dance between man and woman, love and regret.
Here's a selection of our favourite looks spotted in front of the Centorial on Saturday morning for the Fall/Winter 2014 men's show.
Verbal and Yoon, Peter Xu, Wyman Wong, Mrs. Kwon, Johnny Ho and Dan Cui (GQ CHINA) are among our favourite ambassadors and they were nicely representing the brand!
"a wholly cinematic experience" BY ALICE CAVANAGH
"There was a distinct chill in the air in Paris this morning, but showgoers kept warm outside the show venue by sipping on cups of black coffee from KENZO coffee mugs. Inside, the scene was set up with wooden structures center stage and graphic markings on the runway. This was an imagined industrial community complete with tin roofs and raw interiors.
Continuing their love for all things Americana this season Carol and Humberto looked to the Pacific Northwest drawing from the region’s industrial work culture and majestic scenery. As such, the KENZO Fall Winter 2014/2015 man they envisaged is a hard-working, yet elegant, man. His uniform is comprised of well-tailored suiting, cosy knitwear, cropped jackets and voluminous pea coats. There were also the essential chunky safety boots and clogs that channelled an urban lumberjack — if ever there was such a thing.
“We wanted to showcase the industrial side of America,” said Humberto of the collection, once the show had wrapped. “Everything is about function; there is that culture or idea that you make clothing for a specific purpose. We really wanted to explore that functionality and thought that there could be beauty and elegance found in the ordinary.”
Of course there was nothing ordinary about the collection, which, in true KENZO style saw a twisted take on traditional ideas. An everyday fabric concept like plaid was turned on its head and reproduced as a digital print, the checks glowing vividly like electrical wiring. Likewise a motif that was featured as both a print and as a jewellery design saw “creatures” being constructed from the essentials found in a workers toolbox: nuts, bolts and nails. Cable knits, a staple for working life in the Northwest, were laminated and featured in an acid lime colour that was reminiscent of the glow of a safety vest.
With the exception of this supercharged hue, the palette for the collection was mostly earthen tones —rich browns in shades of espresso and chocolate, deep blues, grey, charcoal, and to throw things off centre a little, lilac purple. “The brown tones were a starting point for us,” said Humberto. “It was a colour that we have a love/hate relationship with, I really wanted to embrace that colour and its potential elegance and beauty.”
The landscape imagery featured on some of the final outerwear looks broke up the palette nicely. Picturesque scenery featuring trees, a flowing river, the silhouette of a mountain range, and a glowing moon, were rendered in appliqué on a leather bomber jacket and a long tailored coat. Inspired by the panoramic views in the Northwest, in the cowboy country states like Montana and Idaho, these images were unexpectedly cast in cool, midnight tones. The overall effect was a slightly darker mood Kenzo, and the eerie soundtrack by New York musician Fatima Al Qadiri made the show a wholly cinematic experience".
THE SET ON KENZO MENS SHOW FALL/WINTER 2014
The decor of the KENZO fall-winter 2014 menswear show plays on ambiguity.
Once again we are in America, but this time we are far from the sun-drenched Pacific coast of the Spring/Summer collection.
Carol and Humberto take us to a wealthy suburb, a backdrop that is constantly rejuvenated by the American imagination and teeming with contradictions. These buildings set the scene for the collection because, like these neighborhoods, the collection is also multi-faceted. Seemingly conventional, with its clean, straight tile prints, the collection also contains secrets. Things are not always what they look like...
FRONT ROW AT KENZO FALL/WINTER 2014
Friends and family came out in force to see the Fall/Winter 2014 men's show yersterday.
The FALL/WINTER MENS SHOW
This morning our Fall/Winter 2014 men's show was taking place in Paris not far from our headquarters. This season, the West coast is still the main inspiration but this time we head North to the rainy cities.
With this collection, we focused on how perceived classic elements could be broken and reinterpreted.
An effort in opposites attract where the familiar is twisted. The collection is bold, precise in its considered mixing of textures, proportions and shapes.
Everyday tailoring is distinguished yet distorted and what appears as the norm is reflected in an unconventional light. The silhouette is fragmented and layered. Trousers are high waisted, straight legged and worn with chopped knits.
4-button, high-revered suit jackets appear peeking out from underneath hooded sweaters. Discerning asymmetric and delineated stitching on coats and jackets break the classic and defuse the standard. Peacoats with raincoat volumes feature stepping on the back to add extra strata to the silhouette. The collections palette of browns and greys is jarred with injections of orchid and wild lime.
Prints include landscapes, factory worker’s tool creatures and an x-ray neon check. We embroidered replicas of the prints onto plastic foil knits.
To complement our winter collection, accessories are industrial and surface as elements from a steelworkers uniform. Safety boots anchor the chopped up silhouette.
The tool creature bracelets adorn workers wrists while spanner and nuts are pinned to down jackets. Our messenger bag is oversized, metalized, quilted and worn hugged against the body.