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The Spring/Summer 2015 collection enjoys reinterpreting Paris from a postcard point of view, while the Torn Paper print represents the insider's view of the city. The pattern evokes billboards that fill the streets and metro stations. Ads are placed on top of each other and strips are torn away as the weeks go by leaving a heterogeneous collage of spreads randomly put together.

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Like these posters, the Torn Paper print superimposes the different patterns of the season. A first layer appears: some orange and pale green Dots and Logo. And then, a piece of Breton Stripes hides the Badges pattern with the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty. A brand new print alluding to Paris and all its aspects.  

This spring, the collection is going nautical with plenty of striped jerseys, pea jackets and sailor pants. 

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The pants, originally designed for sailors in the 18th century, still continue to seduce today thanks to their flattering cut. The central fly was removed to avoid any risks of being hitched to cords and to enable sea men to slide down rope knots. The trapezium-shaped yoke that folded on the front of the trousers was added for an extra layer. Pea jackets were worn to cover the buttons of the pants.

 

At KENZO, our sailor pants are embellished with "Gold Coins", the recurrent gold blazons in the collection. These high-waisted pants highlight the silhouette and their flared shape creates a balance between casualness and elegance. 

KENZO’s spiritual home has always been somewhere in the wide open world.  It’s why Kenzo Takada named his shop in Galerie Vivienne ‘Jungle Jap’.  Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have taken KENZO on a journey that goes far beyond the archives but today, it felt like we were back in the wild.  Inside a cavernous warehouse space on the edge of North East Paris, our eyes were drawn to the green and blue (a classic KENZO colour combo) striped background.  

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As the lights dimmed it was as if the space was playing tricks on us as it appeared that the backdrop was moving towards us, shrinking the space.  It suddenly split into seven WiFi controlled holographic blocks and they began to move in unison to reveal Saint Etienne, performing especially composed tracks ‘You Don’t Own Me’ and ‘After the Rain’.  Lim and Leon as well as traversing back to KENZO’s past also dipped into their own nostalgia as they were both fans of their debut 1991 album ‘Foxbase Alpha’.

 

As the moving blocks began its assault course around the runway, Issa Lish opened the show as a lone caped and hooded figure with a splay of white lighting up her eyes.  That first look set the tone for a collection that cocooned and blanketed us with warmth-inducing layers in forest greens, burgundies and yellows.  We were enveloped in the cosiest of capes, blanket coats and shearlings bundled up with raw-edged knits.  They often came with embellished hoods or wool caps with attached scarves that resembled a form of armor. 

 

This particular KENZO tribe strode forward in python platform Chelsea boots and carried nomadic cross body rucksacks. Like the deepening of a forest, the embellishment became dense with boucle embroidery, beaded flowers, fil coupe and stripes created by fringing.  Dissected rays and waves together with nocturnal floral prints harked back to KENZO’s florid printed past.  Under Lim and Leon’s these tried and tested motifs were even more abstracted.  Stripes were deliberately distorted and interrupted.  Florals were muted and darkened like new takes on the camouflage print.  

These rich protective cacophonies and the way the models were wrapped up, recalled the photographer Hans Feurer and his collaborative work with Takada in the 1980s when he took girls into far-flung places to shoot them in KENZO - their beauty enhanced by their surroundings.  It felt like Lim and Leon took us back to this spirit as this collection once again connected the KENZO woman today with nature.

 

As the models came striding out in a square formation, the holographic blocks were dancing their own magical choreography and throwing mesmerising tiny shards of reflections all around the set.  These abstracted “trees” seemed to represent some kind of mystical spirit of the forest and its plantation.  You thought of films like Avatar or to throw out an indulgently childish reference -  Pocahontas.  So, ‘can you paint with all the colours of the wind’?  Yes you can with the help of KENZO’s eclectic melange that we witnessed today.   

Discover our favorite street looks shot outside the Paris Event Center under a sunny and bright sky just before the beginning of the Women's Fall/Winter 2015 show!

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Kenzine takes you backstage at our Women's Fall/Winter 2015 show with a series of photographs shot just before the models walked down the runway. We discover our girls getting ready, hair styled by Anthony Turner and make up by Aaron de Mey!

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Long dresses are back this season.

Staying true to KENZO's DNA, they are inspired by diverse influences.

 

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Bohemian and floaty, they mix smooth 70s Californian coolness, the elegance of the French Norman coast and details of the antique toga dress, all which pair perfectly with our gold coined gladiator sandals!
 

Set on a navy dots pattern, the Badges print celebrates two icons of the city: the Eiffel Tower and The statue of Liberty.

 

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The Eiffel Tower was added to KENZO logo by Carol and Humberto as a fun and obvious reference to the house’s French origins and it now comes back every season. Our second icon of the season is the Statue of Liberty. And only very few people know it but the Iron Lady (in a smaller version) is also facing the Seine River, melting into the Parisian landscape. This season, those symbols are two elements of the same idea: an outsider view of Paris that twists the Parisian clichés.

Yesterday, the 21th Sidaction dinner took place in Paris and Carol and Humberto invited their friends to support the fight against AIDS. Blogger Susie Bubble, French singers Yelle and Christine and the Queens, fashion writer Derek Blasberg, Lauren Santo Domingo (co-founder of online retail store Moda Operandi), designer Tory Birch and Pierre-Yves Roussel, chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion group, all answered the call and joined the cause.

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It is a tradition at KENZO to always have a little souvenir for our guests at the shows. This time, Carol ad Humberto conceived an aromatic mix for a tea called KENZO "phone home" as reference to the futuristic dimension of the Fall/Winter 2015 collection

 

 

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Inside, you'll find a list of unusual ingredients like Zhejiang Chunmee, Lapacho, Ginko Biloba, Cocoa Nibs or Sobacha but the result is -on the opposite- very expected: delicious!

Perfect for cold mornings.

Try this at home.
 

Once again our friends and families were in Philarmonie de Paris to support us and the Fall/Winter men's collection!

Discover our best shots of Caroline Issa, Pierpaolo Ferrari and Maurizio Catelan, Kenzo Takada, Sarah Endelman, Edison Chen, Verbal and Yoon!

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