THE GRAND FINALE
Carol and Humberto mined the wondrous work and world of David Lynch for the last two KENZO collections (men’s and pre-Fall) and their infatuation reached a climatic point today at the woman’s Fall/Winter 2014 presentation in Paris. For the grand finale in this cinematic trilogy the duo actually worked with the iconic director himself on the soundtrack, mood, and set design, which included a giant sculpture that dramatically flickered at the end of the runway. “This was always our plan to work with him on the finale, on the ending,” said Humberto excitedly post show.
From the cloak and dagger dark curtained venue, to the maze-like configuration of the catwalk, and the driving kick-drum beat on the soundtrack, Lynch’s touch was distinctly present at every moment. Even the candied popcorn served to guests seemed like a nod to his obsession with Americana. “He really designed the entire thing,” said Humberto. “Including the mirrors, the configuration of the runway, even the way the girls walked… it was meant to feel like they were getting lost.”
Although Lynch’s oeuvre is both varied and extensive, this marks his first foray into the world of fashion shows. “He’s never worked on a fashion show so I think he was really intrigued about the process,” said Carol.
As for the garments, the duo set out to create a collection “though the eyes of David Lynch,” — a wardrobe for the modern Lynchian heroine. Silhouettes and, as ever with Kenzo, prints were the focal points of this collection with the former explored as never before. Volumes were exaggerated and then contrasted to great effect: lean tailored looks were styled with buoyant circle skirts that sat on the waist, fitted bodices had peplums, and sharp tailored suits that should have been slim were made in quilted down. Nothing was as it seemed.
The “tool creatures” first seen in the men’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection reappeared in both print and as embroidered motifs, and other prints were drawn directly from Lynch’s universe — reflections of shattered mountain ranges appeared in acid yellow and a herring-bone flooring pattern was pushed to almost a psychedelic effect.
KENZO regulars Leigh Lezark, Jessica Alba and Mademoiselle Yulia sat front row drawing up their shopping lists — those pochettes inscribed with the words “Forever, no?” will certainly be at the top — and although Lynch couldn't be there another important luminary was present. Founder Mr Kenzo Takada, put in an appearance to show his continued support for the new team. “We really design with him in mind, so it’s nice to see him being excited about what we are doing,” commented Humberto backstage.
Our best KENZO ambassadors this morning in front of La Cité de la Mode in Paris... A joyful mix of Eyes and tigers from last season and fish and waves from this one!
FRONT ROW AT THE FALL/WINTER 2014 WOMEN'S SHOW
This morning, KENZO friends and family came out in force at La Cité de la Mode in Paris to show some love and support to Carol and Humberto.
A beautiful front row where Jessica Alba, Rila Fukushima, Jeanne Damas, Mademoiselle Yulia, Delfina Delettrez, Suzie Bubble, Chiara Ferragni, Atlanta de Cadenet or Tao Okomonto were wearing their favourite KENZO silhouettes of the season.
Even Kenzo Takada graced us with his presence!
THE SET OF THE KENZO WOMEN's FALL/WINTER 2014 SHOW
The set of our Fall/Winter 2014 women's show was designed by David Lynch.
The head symbolises the unknowable strangeness that lies at the heart of all things. What Lynch calls "Mysterioso".
Lynch explained: “I've sculpted a head in clay once, and I had put a piece of cheese and some turkey inside it. I've opened a kind of mouth on it and I've left it in my kitchen. For four days, ants have come and worked day and night to eat it up. Their small legs had created like pores on it, the clay seemed real, it was unbelievable !” (source 20 minutes / in French).
Most of Twin Peaks fans know Julee Cruise, famous for singing the hit "Falling" from Twin Peaks soundtrack. They might have also recognized the head used on the cover of her album "The Voice of Love".
Source and english translation: Lynchland
PRODUCT HIGHLIGHT #1
A bright and vitalized collection incorporating elements from music, nature and art, we are invited to wander nonchalantly through the relaxed and carefree life of a sunkissed, sunshine state citizen. The collection is punctuated by fresh, cool summer colors of bubblegum, cement grey, peach and pool blue and prints of hand painted palm trees and painters flowers.
California is the inspiration of our Spring/Summer collections and Carol and Humberto’s home state. We interviewed some inspiring locals to define the essence of the golden state, and on top of our list was Vanessa Torres. She is one of the top professional skateboarders in the world and a pioneer for being the first female skateboarder to get a medal at the X games. Last fall, she rode for KENZO at the Kalifornia launch party in L.A. and today, she shares her point of view on Californian culture and its influence on skateboarding.
KENZINE: Born and raised in California?
Vanessa Torres: I was born in Anaheim and raised in Buena Park. I have been all over Southern California with a little bit of Northern California mixed in as well.
K: How did you start skateboarding?
V. T.: Growing up, I didn’t really fancy hanging out with other girls. You would most likely find me running amuck with the neighborhood boys, who had a huge influence on me. Being around them made me want to get my hands on my first board. I was always involved in physical activities, so when skateboarding presented itself within the group of boys I grew up with, I asked for my first board for Christmas. I was 12 years old. After that, I would skate everyday after school until I couldn’t skate anymore. It died out for most of the boys I grew up with, but there was something undeniable that skating gave me so I continued doing it. It gave me a sense of peace and I felt like it completed me as a human.
K: Do you think that coming from California led you to skateboarding? Is it part of its way of life?
V. T.: I definitely think growing up and continuing to live in California influenced and inspired me to skate. The weather is beautiful almost 365 days of the year. Living in Caliornia, I feel like if you didn’t pick up a skateboard, you were likely to pick up a surfboard, if not both. Back then and now, everywhere I look there is a kid with a board. There has always been a huge skate scene out here.
K: I heard you were living between San Francisco and San Diego… Why two cities?
V. T.: Once I moved out of my mom’s place at the age of 17-18, I became super nomadic. Skating is amazing in SF and in SD. At the time, I had the privilege of traveling through skateboarding. I met a lot of rad people and wanted to experience it all so I lived in two cities. I loved spending time in SD because of the gorgeous weather for skating year around and being near the ocean. SF has a completely different feel when it comes to skating because the city has so much to offer, i.e., crazy hills to bomb, architecture to get creative with trick wise – it makes for amazing photos and footage.
K: Which aspect of the Californian landscape would explain that skateboarding was born there and knew its main revolutions there as well?
V. T.: I believe it all started from the beach and surfing. Back in the day, the surfers needed an alternative to surfing when the waves were flat, so skateboarding was created. It started as “sidewalk surfing” and kept evolving from there thanks to California’s endless amount of concrete and great weather.
K: How would you describe the Californian way of skating?
V. T.: In my eyes, the skate culture and scene out here is really diverse. You’ve got your heavy technical skateboarders, your huge hand rail skateboarders, your transition skateboarders and so on. I almost feel like whatever it is that you’re most passionate about in skating influences what you wear. I find that most skaters that grew up in California are pretty laidback, fun and social.
K: And the music scene that was defining skate culture in the 80s/90s?
V. T.: To be completely honest, I was born in 1986 and didn’t start skating until the late 90’s early 2000’s. When I envision what the music scene was like back then, I see a lot of Fugazi, Bad Brains and Beastie Boys. There were heavy empty backyard pool skate sessions going down with punk bands playing.
K: And the “outfit”?
V. T.: That seemed to be what was most comfortable to skate in at the time and was considered the standard skateboard “fashion” attire. Shoe wise, Vision Street Wear and Vans were pretty common during that era. Today, skateboard “fashion” has progressed into tighter pants and the music scene is continuously changing. There’s no specific genre that defines all skateboarders. Everyone has their own sense of style and music preference. I am myself pretty big on corduroy pants and dark denim, I’ve been skating in some free people cords, and I also love a good vintage t-shirt. I mostly skate in the Vans era shoe.
K: Who was your icon growing up and why?
V. T.: Before I even knew that female skateboarders existed, I was heavily inspired by Rick McCrank and Brian Anderson. I think I instantly had a sense of what amazing style and creativeness should look like on a board. They are hands down still two of my favorite skateboarders. When I discovered Elissa Steamer and Jaime Reyes, I realized that there was a promising place somewhere in the skateboarding industry for the ladies and that just made me want to skate even harder.
K: You were the first female skateboarder to get a medal at the X games, would you say that skateboarding is a tough scene for women? Would you define yourself as a skateboarder or a female skateboarder first?
V. T.: I would definitely define myself as a skateboarder. Skating is an art form and a way of self-expression. I’ve never considered it anything but that. Whether you are fond of cruising down the streets or you are an aggressive bowl rider, it’s skateboarding and has nothing to do with gender. It has been a continuous struggle and will continue to be so for females. I believe one of the main reasons is that we are constantly being compared to the male skateboarders, progression wise. Male skateboarders have been skating longer than females, and I think we are beginning to make our own mark. More females need to get out there and show people that we are and can be a part of skate culture. We are in a class of our own and the progression is very much alive and thriving. But there have been some great moments over the past years for women’s skateboarding. ESPN/X Games adding a women’s skate street event and keeping it going over the past decade is phenomenal. THRASHER skate magazine recently filmed and released a full video part of Lacey Baker that was super badass. But no matter what, we’ve got to keep working really hard to get coverage in top skate magazine and websites and achieve more exposure in order to inspire progression.
K: How do you feel about fashion influenced by skate culture today?
V. T.: Skateboarding is more popular than ever right now so it was bound to happen sooner or later. My opinion is that in general brands “borrowing” skate culture to sell their products should be careful about looking representative of what skateboarding is truly about. Skateboarding is a form of art. If a brand wants to be a part of it, it should be authentic by working with real skateboarders and contributing back to our culture.
K: Do you still love skateboarding as much as in 2000 when you started being a professional?
V. T.: My passion for skating has never changed, it has only intensified with every new day. I actually enjoy skating more now than ever not being a part of the business/contract side of things. I am free to skate whenever I want and don’t feel pressured or obligated to meet crazy deadlines that are a big part of riding for a huge company.
K: You have a rather “free” life, what would you like to do that you have not done yet in your life?
V. T.: Skateboarding has given me so much throughout the years. I’ve gotten to travel the world to places like Europe and Australia multiple times. I have had the opportunity to skate some of the most prestigious street spots around the world. I have met so many amazing people along the way. There are definitely some things I still want to do. Skydiving sounds pretty killer and maybe backpacking somewhere like an exotic forest. I’m only 27 so I’m hoping I still have time to achieve everything else I aspire to do in my life.
K: Where is your next trip?
V. T.: Currently, I am preparing for a trip down to Tijuana and Rosarito, Mexico with a good friend and her nonprofit organization called Poseiden Foundation. The foundation’s main purposes are to empower youth to follow the dreams they are most passionate about whether it be skating or something else. We will be skating with locals and throwing best trick contests for all ages, giving out skate product as prize. My goal is to bring encouraging and positive vibes to their cities.
K: Everybody in the world knows the skate park in Venice beach, would you give us your top ten Californian skate spots or skate parks?
V. T.: The Brooklyn Projects Skate shop that I ride for in LA has a super fun miniramp in the back that I always enjoy skating with a good crew of friends. I spend a lot of time in Long Beach, CA as well. Long Beach has a legit skate scene with a lot of fun parks around the city such as Houghton Park and Cherry Park, which is a DIY spot made by skateboarders. The Bay Area has some pretty rad parks too, Potrero, Berkeley and Sunnyvale to name a few. There are so many new parks popping up left and right so the list goes on and on.
HOW TO EAT FISH IN A SUSTAINABLE WAY
Today, we share a couple of rules to follow if you want to eat fish in a sustainable way and help us fight overfishing!
When buying seafood, make sure to always find out where it comes from (local is not necessarily sustainable). Once you know where it is from, follow a guide like MCS fishonline in UK or Monterey Bay Seafood Watch in US or WWF seafood guides in other countries. They are great sources of reliable information and referencing.
You can also download personal guides to your phone, computer or purchase mini pocket guides to have on you in person when visiting a restaurant or the supermarket. If you want to find out which restaurants are making efforts to conserve wild fish stocks in UK, France, Spain, US, Belgium and Switzerland then visit www.fish2fork.com
However, trying to find out as much about origins is an excellent habit to get into just to show the fishmonger, retailer or restaurant that you want to see if they know or care. Get in the habit of asking for more detailed information on origins of seafood to appear on labels in shops or on menus!
Ask for more details on method of catch to appear on labels in shops or on menus. It is your consumer’s right to know! You should not eat anything that is rated 5 on the MCS fish to avoid red list of species, on Monterey Bay list of species to avoid and WWF red lists too. Examples of species you will find in these red lists include: European Eel, Bluefin Tuna from Med/Atlantic sources, North Sea Cod, Orange Roughy and all deep sea species and Whitebait.
Variety is key. Eat different species of fish to ease the pressure on the big favourite species like Cod, Tuna and Prawns.
Help us fight overfishing by spreading the word! Act Now!
To see how our charity of choice Blue Marine Foundation helps protecting our oceans visit: www.bluemarinefoundation.com
The decline of the oceans is the world’s largest solvable problem but with decisive action and support, over the next 20 years, this crisis can be reversed. We listed a couple of facts you should know about overfishing. Spread the word!
1. In 2013 UK Sea Bass stocks were at their lowest level in 20 years
2. A quarter of the world’s sharks and rays are threatened with extinction
3. 107 species of rays are classified as threatened
4. Whales, dolphins and porpoises are threatened by over-fishing
5. Pirate fishing accounts for an estimated 20% of the world’s catch and as much as 50% in some fisheries
6. More than 85% of the world's fisheries have been pushed to or beyond their biological limits and are in need of strict management plans to restore them.
7. More than 40 species of marine fish currently found in the Mediterranean, could disappear in the next few years
8. Currently, 63% of fish stocks in the Atlantic are over fished.
9. 82 percent of fish stocks in the Mediterranean are over fished.
10. North Sea cod reach spawning age at around four years old. The average age of cod caught in the North Sea is 1.6 years.
11. Scientific estimates suggest that 93% of North Sea cod are caught before they can reproduce
12. The EU fleet is estimated to have the capacity to fish two to three times the sustainable level
13. Overfishing occurs when fish and other marine species are caught faster than they can reproduce
14. Since 1950 one in four of the world’s fisheries has collapsed due to over-fishing
15. In 1938 we landed over 5 times more fish than we do now
16. All species of marine turtles are either critically endangered or endangered.
17. Over-fishing costs the world over $50 billion dollars each year
18. The biomass of large fish in our oceans is only about 10% of what it was before the 1900s
19. For every kilo of shrimp trawled, an estimated 20 kilos of by-catch can be produced which is often thrown overboard, dead
20. Over one hundred million sharks are being killed each year