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Fall Winter 2018

Introduction

Introduction

Working on collections for KENZO over the years, we find ourselves permanently provoked to picture life through the prism of culture, people and happenings. One of the most influential inspirations for us is cinema. The plethora of characters and personalities that can be evoked, portrayed and ultimately retained in our psyche is fascinating to us. For Fall-Winter 2018 we present a collection celebrating the various on-screen strong women and men who have engrossed or enthralled us with their style and spirit.

For women's we meander through the traditional and the technical, exposing a collection brimming with dusty colors and vibrant prints. Silk satin cherry blossom jacquard dresses are worn alongside modernized twinsets in transparent nylon knits. Pencil skirts in silk are over-the-knee with front slits. Rich micro-pleated velvet dresses and skirts in an archival floral print come ruched. Tweed cargo pants, oversized pea coats and bustier dresses are matched with washed cotton canvas "movie poster" tee shirts, dresses and culottes. Dresses in "coat lining" inspired silk fabrics pair with wool bouclé coats in lilac or camel.

The men's collection fuses the heritage and modern by twisting classics and clashing prints and colors. A boxy silhouette pervades and skinny pants run the gamut of fabrics. Waxed cotton trenches appear in traditional colors and a pop turquoise. Reflective flock print fabrics are used on technical nylon vests or trousers. Zip-up nylon blousons with floral jacquards partner with heavy wool molleton double faced duffels. Typical bomber jackets are lengthened and leather pieces appear in the shape of beaten up cardigans. Iridescent tailoring bursts through an already vivid color palette.

Carol Lim & Humberto Leon

 

 

The video of the Show

Collection notes

Collection notes

Edith Head, Hollywood’s famed costume designer and long time collaborator of Alfred Hitchcock, used to say that to her, clothes were much more than mere style : they were the basis for a parralel and silent narrative. Scene after scene, a color palette, a cut, the choice of a single accessory, all acted as the premonition of an upcoming twist.

The communicative and lyrical power of fashion is at the heart of this collection. Built like a pop mise-en-abyme, it tells the story in a story – a tale of a young American girl who reaches her teenage years in the early Noughties, yet dreams of spending them in the Sixties. A true fan of vintage movies – namely horror, gore and martial arts— she collects and watches them on old VHS tapes, in her bedroom, in a Californian suburb. Her walls, like her wardrobe, reflect her daydreams, merging her epoch with the one she wishes she lived in. She transforms herself into the heroïne of Vertigo or The Birds, but with cuts and fabrics of the turn of the millenium :  her twin-sets are glittery, her Mao collars are in electrical bronzed tones, her Belle de Jour-like dresses are reworked in sheer nylon, and her strapless bustiers are paired with grungy tee-shirts. Her pencil skirts come in large slits, so she doesn’t end up like the heroine of Psycho and can run away (or after the bus).

As for her boyfriend, he lives in the Seventies – at least in his room – and has developed a undying love of action, espionnage and racing movies of the period. A most modern man, he is fearless when it comes to style, and mixes body hugging cuts and python brogues with explosive turquoise tones and small bag, belted or worn around the neck. A child of the new millenium, he opts for velour impressions, shimmery nylon, trompe l’œil prints, and waxed cottong trench coats, all in an explosive palette.

This surrealist remix, confronting our personal dreams with the times we live in, gives each of us a sense of radical individuality.


A.P.