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Fall Winter 2018

Introduction

Introduction

At a time when the movement of peoples and the spread of cross-cultural dialogue marks our daily lives more than ever, our interest in telling personal stories at KENZO has never felt more appropriate. For the Fall-Winter 2019 collection, our focus turned to Humberto’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage – the Tusán people whose ancestors arrived from Guangdong province to settle in Peru in the 19th century. Today they number in the millions, and the diffusion of Asian traditions throughout South America is a palpable force. This rich and colorful exchange of stories mixes with the contemporary realities of alpine life, as extreme conditions see both men and women layering bright, ethnic textiles with modern tactical garments. In our interpretation, the drama of the Andean colour palette (from Cusco to Machu Picchu) meets piles of fuzzy texture and a touch of Parisian sophistication. Couched in the Ayahuasca dreamscape show set by the artist Pablo Amaringo, this collection invokes discovery and exploration through mind, body, and spirit.

Within the women’s collection, hiking gear has an overt feminine twist, as swirling polar fleece comes tailored and swathes of waterproof nylon are given soft volume and drape. Inspired by the import of rice into Peru, knitwear and recycled raf a pieces feature custom KENZO calligraphy, and an archive ‘Earth’ print returns under the cover of clouds. .

Menswear takes the road less traveled, keeping in mind the military trappings of early explorers. Transformable all-weather outerwear pieces feature harness collars, reversible mesh linings, and detachable pocket gloves.

Blinking from a resin bijoux ‘eye’ clasp, our new KENZO Tali double ap bag is unveiled for the season in a rainbow of colors and crafted in stamped lizard and faux croc leathers or oval ‘eye’ quilting. Held in the hand, on the shoulder, or worn cross-body, it comes printed with the season’s KENZO rice bag motifs and swings with sunglass cases or shaggy shoulder straps.

Carol Lim & Humberto Leon

 

 

The video of the Show

Collection notes

Collection notes

Edith Head, Hollywood’s famed costume designer and long time collaborator of Alfred Hitchcock, used to say that to her, clothes were much more than mere style : they were the basis for a parralel and silent narrative. Scene after scene, a color palette, a cut, the choice of a single accessory, all acted as the premonition of an upcoming twist.

The communicative and lyrical power of fashion is at the heart of this collection. Built like a pop mise-en-abyme, it tells the story in a story – a tale of a young American girl who reaches her teenage years in the early Noughties, yet dreams of spending them in the Sixties. A true fan of vintage movies – namely horror, gore and martial arts— she collects and watches them on old VHS tapes, in her bedroom, in a Californian suburb. Her walls, like her wardrobe, reflect her daydreams, merging her epoch with the one she wishes she lived in. She transforms herself into the heroïne of Vertigo or The Birds, but with cuts and fabrics of the turn of the millenium :  her twin-sets are glittery, her Mao collars are in electrical bronzed tones, her Belle de Jour-like dresses are reworked in sheer nylon, and her strapless bustiers are paired with grungy tee-shirts. Her pencil skirts come in large slits, so she doesn’t end up like the heroine of Psycho and can run away (or after the bus).

As for her boyfriend, he lives in the Seventies – at least in his room – and has developed a undying love of action, espionnage and racing movies of the period. A most modern man, he is fearless when it comes to style, and mixes body hugging cuts and python brogues with explosive turquoise tones and small bag, belted or worn around the neck. A child of the new millenium, he opts for velour impressions, shimmery nylon, trompe l’œil prints, and waxed cottong trench coats, all in an explosive palette.

This surrealist remix, confronting our personal dreams with the times we live in, gives each of us a sense of radical individuality.


A.P.