For our ultimate collection for KENZO, the Spring- Summer 2020 collection, we looked to the home of our founder Kenzo Takada, and more specifically to the surrounding seas of Japan where groups of strong, tenacious and modern-day super-heroes plunge daily to retrieve treasures at the bottom of the ocean. The Ama are groups of Japanese female free divers, who, for over 2000 years have dived to the ocean floor to forage for seafood such as shrimp, urchins or even pearls for their communities. They train from their beginnings as teenagers, taught by their predecessors who can dive well into their 70s. Due to breath training, Ama can stay underwater for significant amounts of time in one go. Over time their numbers have declined, and these intrepid fisherwomen can now only be found sporadically in pockets along the Japanese coastlines. Withstanding harsh and sometimes freezing temperatures, they have become known as the last mermaids.
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
For the Spring-Summer 2020 show, directors Partel Oliva built a strange architecture where space is reconfigured in dramatic ways.
Seascapes with stretched-out suns from photographer Yamazaki Hiroshi’s ‘Heliography’ and ‘Horizon’ series are stitched into a monumental landscape. Through long exposure, the Japanese photographer charted the course of the sun over the ocean, a picture of time itself.
Guadeloupean choreographer Léo Lérus imagined a retrospective procession of looks from Carol & Humberto’s tenure at KENZO from 2012 to now. Parallel to the current collections, figures plucked out of the stream of fashion pay homage to the history of the house, as if time flowed in both directions at once.
Music scoring and performance by SOLANGE