For the second season, we teamed up with our friends TOILETPAPER - this time to shoot the KENZO Spring/Summer 2014 campaign. Now in a KENZO exclusive, we take you behind-the-scenes to see where all the magic happened, and to introduce you to our team and of course our muses : models Devon Aoki and Paul Boche. Expect fun images, crazy details, plastic tigers and giant fishes!
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KENZINE: The Fall/Winter campaign 2013 was an outright success and many people suggested it was one of the strongest of the year… Not bad for a first campaign as a team! According to you, what does it take to create a great campaign and make a difference?
Toiletpaper team: Toiletpaper images are made of simple images: it’s something you can easily describe during a dinner with friends, but without being able to completely explain that uncanny feeling it creates in your stomach. Same thing for the campaign: it probably worked well because of its way of treating the familiar as unfamiliar and vice versa.
K: what are the key elements you need when you create a campaign for KENZO?
TP: We’re not sure if there are key elements, because every change is good for creativity, and every habit is probably not. We believe that KENZO is a brand that fits our ideas and our vision of beauty like a glove. It's as simple as this.
K: The first time you shot for KENZO, the set was a bit crazy with the two horses, the kittens and Humberto’s mask... This time, was it more serious?
TP: As we said before, we like to change a lot from time to time… It had nothing to do with seriousness, since those huge plastic fishes were like a punch in the eye of tastefulness, weren't they?
K: What was the initial brief from Carol and Humberto?
TP: It’s a strange feeling: it is really hard to recall how it started when the work is finished… We probably talked about monastery and Orient, and some music also… But in the end, during the shooting brainstorming continues independently from where it started, as a Chinese whisper.
K: What was the inspiration? A bit of Hokusai? Film Noir? Mythology? Surrealism?
TP: If you want to come with a good recipe, you need to mix together a lot of ingredients, but none of them should cover the others. Just remember that in our dishes what looks tasty and yummy usually is also lethal.. Try it at your own risk!
K: Did you start with drawings, mood boards, collages?
TP: Basically mood boards and collages, but we must admit that the hardest side of working with us is probably that you’ll never know what to expect until you’re on shooting phase: that’s the moment where great ideas spring like frogs in a pond.
K: Who does what inside the TOILETPAPER team during the photo shoot?
TP: There are some phases of the work while we discuss all together, these sharing moments are fundamental for the shooting phase. Then naturally we begin to outline the roles more and more. Maurizio, is a kind of a deus ex machina who always manages to keep the right distance from the images, to criticize them in a neutral manner. Pierpaolo has this ability to improvise and reinvent, changing a comma or a whole set, even things that were already established. Micol is the aesthetic eye, and she knows how to tip the balance in the final stage of the number, when the cake is done and the decoration on top is missing. In any case, the territories do not have clear boundaries, and the invasion is more than welcome, because there are no fixed rules.
K: How was it like to shoot kids this time, do they allow more creativity, more craziness, more energy?
TP: We are like children too, so the feeling was not very different from what we usually get during the set.
K: You have influenced lots of different artists/photographers/designers, who influences you?
TP: A lot of artist, photographers and designers! And some very normal people as well: we are like sponges with legs: we go around, see things that affect our imagination and absorb them… That’s why it’s not so easy to go back to the influencers.
K: What is the best advice you have ever been given?
TP: Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life.
K: A secret you could share with us about the shooting?
TP: We brought the fish back home and keep it in an inflatable pool. It’s still there in our office
K: What are your favorite pieces from the Spring/Summer collection and why?
TP: We liked everything so much we couldn’t make a choice, really!
K: What do you share with KENZO in terms of values, in terms of aesthetic?
TP: We both are colorful and do not take ourselves too seriously… That’s the secret to stay mentally young and creative.
K: Why is it important to be irreverent?
TP: Because otherwise you’re already dead.
Growing up in Los Angeles during the golden age of Californian punk, the duo was inspired by this aesthetic encompassing music, fashion and visual arts. The famous black and white logo drawn in ink of a cult band from the Orange County scene is called to mind and revisited in the collection in both tops and straight-leg shorts. This scene also conjures up the thought of waves drawn with a black felt tip pen, which were ultimately reproduced on tops and accessories.
Since marine life is essential to the development of all forms of life, Carol and Humberto want to raise awareness about the devastation caused by overfishing in some major marine areas. The Spring/Summer 2014 collection highlights four endangered species (the bluefin tuna for example) that we find in the iconic prints of the season. The slogan “No fish, No nothing” serves as our motto to support the activities of BLUE.
NO FISH NO NOTHING EXPERIENCE
Spread the word and help!
MESSAGE FROM CAROL AND HUMBERTO
"We are delighted to announce a highly committed partnership with marine protection specialists the Blue Marine Foundation (BLUE). Born and raised in California and living in close proximity to the beach and ocean, the protection of all marine life has always been a cause extremely close to our hearts. And with a Spring-Summer Collection for 2014 borne of a maelstrom of oceanic inspirations, we have made it our joint mission to assist in the fight against marine pollution, overfishing and destruction of marine life, through partnering with one of the strongest teams of conservationists today.
The decline of the oceans is the world’s largest solvable problem and with decisive action and support, over the next 20 years, this crisis can be reversed. BLUE, which was established in 2010 by the team behind the award-winning documentary ‘The End of the Line’, is dedicated to actively and effectively protecting 10 per cent of the world’s oceans by 2020 through establishing a network of marine reserves and innovative private sector solutions. Already, the charity has brokered the creation of major marine protected areas in locations including the Chagos Archipelago in the Indian Ocean, the largest fully protected marine reserve in the world and Turneffe Atoll on the Caribbean coast of Belize, being the largest unprotected fragment of the world’s second largest barrier reef. Before BLUE was born, only 1% of the oceans were protected. Today, this figure has doubled to 2.8% but more needs to be done. BLUE is working hard to ensure our oceans are no longer out of sight and out of mind, but that future generations can appreciate their beauty, and enjoy a sustainable fish supply, for years and years to come.
We were eager to partner with a visionary organization that spoke about how we could live in harmony with the ocean. As we researched different charitable associations, we discovered BLUE to be the perfect match. We wholeheartedly support their mission in creating sustainable fishing and creating marine reserves. We are extremely excited about this long term partnership between KENZO and BLUE and hope to create more and more awareness to this issue.”
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
BLUE’s mission statement is the active and effective protection of 10% of the world’s oceans by 2020, delivered through a network of marine reserves and private sector led solutions in the sea.
To financially assist the Blue Marine Foundation with all their endeavours, KENZO has launched a line of unisex sweaters and tee-shirts with the slogan “No fish no nothing”. The pieces will be sold in KENZO stores, at Kenzo.com (click here to discover the capsule collection for women and for men) and other participating retailers.
The 29th edition of the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères will take place from the 25th to the 28th of April 2014 at the Villa Noailles. The exhibitions will run until the 25th of May.
The festival is directed by Jean-Pierre Blanc and Didier Grumbach, who support young talents in the field of fashion and photography every year. Thanks to the partners of the festival, many prizes reward the new wave of creators in competition.
This year the presidents of the jury are Carol Lim and Humberto,our creative directors. They were in Paris on the 22nd of January and chose the final 10 candidates among more than 312 apllications, 55 nationalities, 45 pre-selected.
They were assisted by a team of friends and fashion specialists:
Carol Song, buyer at Opening Ceremony
Chloë Sevigny, actress
Jay Massacret, editor-in-chief of VMan
Eric Wilson, fashion editor of american InStyle
And other personnalities who will complete the jury and join them at the Festival d'Hyères.
The jury selected ten young fashion designers from 8 different countries.
Ukraine, Women Collection
Netherlands, Women collection
France, Women Collection
Netherlands, Men collection
Estonia, Women collection
Japan, Women collection
France, Women collection
Austria, Women collection
Belgium, Men collection
Lettonia, Men Collection
Set credit: Mathilde Nivet
The FALL/WINTER MENS SHOW
This morning our Fall/Winter 2014 men's show was taking place in Paris not far from our headquarters. This season, the West coast is still the main inspiration but this time we head North to the rainy cities.
With this collection, we focused on how perceived classic elements could be broken and reinterpreted.
An effort in opposites attract where the familiar is twisted. The collection is bold, precise in its considered mixing of textures, proportions and shapes.
Everyday tailoring is distinguished yet distorted and what appears as the norm is reflected in an unconventional light. The silhouette is fragmented and layered. Trousers are high waisted, straight legged and worn with chopped knits.
4-button, high-revered suit jackets appear peeking out from underneath hooded sweaters. Discerning asymmetric and delineated stitching on coats and jackets break the classic and defuse the standard. Peacoats with raincoat volumes feature stepping on the back to add extra strata to the silhouette. The collections palette of browns and greys is jarred with injections of orchid and wild lime.
Prints include landscapes, factory worker’s tool creatures and an x-ray neon check. We embroidered replicas of the prints onto plastic foil knits.
To complement our winter collection, accessories are industrial and surface as elements from a steelworkers uniform. Safety boots anchor the chopped up silhouette.
The tool creature bracelets adorn workers wrists while spanner and nuts are pinned to down jackets. Our messenger bag is oversized, metalized, quilted and worn hugged against the body.
Since taking the helm as artistic directors for KENZO in July 2011, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have succeeded in reviving the fresh air and creative energy that invigorated the brand in its 70s heyday.
With vibrant colors, modern cuts, digitalized prints, unexpected events and amusing campaigns they brought to the streets, the pair has managed to capture the spirit of the house, all the better to add their trademark twist. This youthful energy is their signature: raw, spontaneous and urban. The streewear pieces of the collection brings a younger generation of KENZO fans to our community and they have a playful attitude towards fashion and themselves.
winners of the #KENZOSKY contest
We are happy to announce the winners of our #kenzosky Instagram contest! All through the summer, we asked you to get inspired by our Fall-Winter sky prints (day clouds, night clouds, thunderbolts, raindrop…) and shoot your most beautiful sky.
The participation was amazing! Thanks to you and your #kenzosky tagged pics, we went all over the world and discovered how creative and inspired is the KENZO instagram community! Here are the winners, picked by Carol and Humberto. Thanks again for your participation and if you don’t follow us on Instagram yet, join at @kenzo!
Congratulations to our grand winner, Monica Martins (@monicamartins) from Rio de Janeiro, who wins a “Day Clouds” sweatshirt for this amazing shot (the first picture with the clouds on the window). Here’s what Monica says about this pic :
“I took this one at the Caracol Park in Canela, near Gramado, Rio Grande do Sul, this year, where my husband was one of the judges at one of the biggest film festivals of Brazil. So when we got to the balcony, while everyone was looking down, I looked up and noticed that there was a window to the sky. And there was my shot."
Here is what Carol and Humberto had to say about their pick : “This is a wonderful sky picture and we love the fact that it needs a double take, that it takes a second to understand what it is. And we happen to do that too with our work!”
The following winners got picked by Carol and Humberto and won a “Day Clouds” iPhone5 case :
Laura Miano (@lauramiano) from Melbourne, Australia :
“This picture was taken while I was on a road trip to Byron Bay. A friend and I happened to wake up at 5am and when we went outside we were greeted with this amazing sunrise!”
Julie Lours (@julielours) from Montreal, Canada :
“July 19 2013 in Toronto. After a thunderous storm, there was a post-aocalyptic atmosphere in the city, clouds were litteraly poping out of the sky which had turned all yellow… Time to go out for a beer and capture that eerie vision with my rusted iphone!”
Christian Scharf (@torrent_av) from Stockholm, Sweden :
“This photo was sprung out of inspiration straight after a visit to the modern art section of the National Art Gallery, with the more-than-awesome room of Calder sculptures. It actually shows a small part of the triangular stylish west wing building against the blue Washington D.C. sky. The darkened black section is a real mystery, I really have no idea where it came from.”
Nicolas Talon (@nicolas_heel) from Rhode Island, USA :
“I took this pic in a field near my French hometown. I’ve always wanted to go to United States and since last August it became a reality : I am studying in Rhode Island for a year!”
Homs Padrisa Carme (@carmehomsp) from Barcelona, Spain :
“I took this photo at Cotllioure (France) in Easter week, on april 2013. It was a trip of many good pictures along the route Barcelona, Cadaques, Cap de Creus, Collioure. It was a nice rainy week but very lovely. I've got good memories!”
Pauline Alexia (@blogenbeaute) from Paris, France :
“On a spring evening, as I was standing on my balcony in Paris, I got taken over by the magic of the sky…”
Jorge Fuentes Cervantes (@georgefuentesc) from Mexico :
“I took this picture while I was having a break from a busy day in summer, I saw the sky and it make me felt like fliying =)”
Jenny Remy (@remysreflections) from New York
Steven Singorahardjo (@ssingorahardjo) from Indonesia
Tyler Snyder (@tylerjsnyder) from Houston