The Wave Crest
At KENZO, Carol and Humberto have made technical precision and unexpected silhouettes the grounding elements of their contemporary vision. So continues the duo’s unique multicultural mash-up: this season their Americana roots married with the skilled tailoring and construction of the Parisian maison.
For Spring/Summer 2014, Carol and Humberto drew on the perennial summer vibes of their Cali roots: the sun-bright skies of the West Coast, the endless beaches, and expansive Pacific Ocean all set the mood for the collection. As did the easy-breezy sense of style that the locals are renowned for. Skirt lengths skim the upper thigh, t-shirts are cropped, and tailoring is oversized, allowing for a comfortable, casual kind of chic. The season’s must have cropped pants are slashed at the knee to give greater ease of movement and let in that blissfully cool sea breeze. These ‘vents’ carry the breeze through into jackets and dresses as well, details that prove that there is more than meets the eye to the collection.
Such innovations are found not just in the cutwork but also in their exploration of the wave crest — the touchstone for this particular collection. Fabrics ‘swell’ away from the body and the belts, attached to skirts and pants, cinch the garments and add volume to existing layers.
The crest appears throughout the collection in motif form as well, in a variety of incarnations. It’s used on the wave-like hemlines that lap at the models midriffs, shins and thighs on various styles, and is employed for panelling, creating a patchwork effect on some of the dresses and tops that looks like the fabrics are melting into one another. The wave crest is there again in the prints, as a hand-scrawled illustration that captures the movement and flow of water.
…Catch it if you can!