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Spring Summer 2018

Introduction

Introduction

For our women’s and men’s collections for Spring Summer 2018, we celebrate two muses - one who represents the modern view of the house, and one from its past. Two people who revolutionized the global zeitgeist in very different ways. Between these two people, there are as many parallels as there are divergences. What remains unique is their individual capability to inspire, provoke and influence.

Ryuichi Sakamoto for us remains to this day, one of the people who sparks a myriad of ideas in everything we do. Starting off as one third of pioneering electro group, ‘yellow magic orchestra’ and then a solo composer, activist and dancer, over the course of his career he has epitomized progress and reform, enlightenment and enrichment.

Sayoko Yamaguchi, one of the world’s original supermodels, was one of Kenzo Takada’s muses. Her originality lay in her capacity to offer chameleon-like qualities to endless inspirations. Upon looking through the many images in the house’s archives of her and Kenzo, we were inspired by her transformative character.

For both collections, we aim to capture the duality of the two figures. We look to the era when they both ruled on two distant continents; to Ryuichi’s personal flair when questioning the norm, and to Sayoko’s ability to mix patterns, prints, silhouettes, and colors.

Carol Lim & Humberto Leon

 

 

The video of the Show

Collection notes

Collection notes

« Rose is a rose is a rose » once wrote Gertrude Stein, suggesting that some words have the power to generate feelings and emotions throughout life.

In this distinctively floral collection, the natural motifs are treated both in an organic and pop manner, for a sense of perpetually renewed timelessness, and references both new and familiar.

Juxtapositions of contrasting flowers are layered with stripes –equally ageless, equally twisted–, for an explosive print-blocking effect.

These looks reflect a return to the house’s many roots: they quote the Seventies, which focused on nature and freedom, a time when Kenzo Takada showed his debut collection in bubbling Paris; but also the Eighties and Nineties when current designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, were busy immersing themselves in sub-cultures and Californian underground, which feeds their unbound imagination to this day.

Two personalities act as a golden thread throughout the pieces: Sayoko Yamaguchi, the founder’s muse who was known for her multiples physical transformations – which all only have one thing in common, her desire to break off social expectations; and Ryuichi Sakamoto, a former member of iconic electronic band Yellow Magic Orchestra, who then went on to be an activist and a dancer, and forever blurred the lines between political commitment and creativity. Both their styles clashed and confronted references, in order to question the meaning of style, hierarchy, genres and genders.

These influences appear in the womenswear in the shape of distorted references, such as faux racing logo with added ruffles; in flared Capri pants and in bucket hats. Lingerie-like slips become daytime dresses in metallic silks or built-in sheer layers. Trench coats are cut out of patent leather or adorned with crystals, as to say they too deserve to be more than merely functional.

As for the menswear, traditional-yet-twisted suiting is remixed with touches of vintage boxers’ uniforms – including lace up tennis shoes that can usually be spotted on a ring. Shorts are worn high-waisted and pared with dance slippers, flowered overalls, and t-shirts inspired by record covers. Stripes come in psychedelic shapes or pin-sized, on silk trousers or in kaftan-inspired tunics. Pourquoi pas, might you ask? Stripe is a stripe is a stripe.


A.P.

Kenzo tiger
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